Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys sorry to hijack topic a bit but I have a similar problem and need help urgently!

i just put a s1 stagea motor into my s2 r33 gts4, originally it was NA. I plugged a factory r33 s2 gtst ecu in and it misfires and chokes badly after about 3000rpm.

Am I going to have to find a s1 stagea ecu?

hey guys sorry to hijack topic a bit but I have a similar problem and need help urgently!

i just put a s1 stagea motor into my s2 r33 gts4, originally it was NA. I plugged a factory r33 s2 gtst ecu in and it misfires and chokes badly after about 3000rpm.

Am I going to have to find a s1 stagea ecu?

N/A or turbo loom? Boost sensor fitted? Idles ok?

  • 5 years later...

A lot has changed in 6 years, there are many more standalone options for the RB these days, most of which crap all over the old PFC.

Depending on where you are located keeping the de and slapping a turbo on it can get great results, if you are willing to run e85 as a fuel. Could save you a lot of headaches...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...