Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

so im doing some planning and budgeting to get an r32 gtr in a year.. ive decided that i want to freshen the engine up anyway, so im wondering how often does an immaculate or tidy stock gtr come up for sale in japan with a dead or almost dead engine?? roughly looking at spending $10ish on the car and $5-10 on the engine... as opposed to buying a tidy 25g gtr and having it blow up the next day.. the rebuild will be using standard components, to standard specs, nothing fancy.. but just to give piece of mind.

are these cars even eligable for import or sale??

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267945-r32-gtr-with-dead-engine/
Share on other sites

the price difference between an 'imaculate' R32 GTR and a 'tidy' one in Japan is considerable. so you would need to get a better idea of what you actually want before you start this exercise. $10k AU=JPY700000 [approx]; have a look on the auction sites and see what that will buy, definately not 'imaculate', probably not 'tidy' either. I imported a 32 GTR about a year ago and the import costs totalled approx $8.5k AU; that's car registered and on the road [not incl insurance]. so your estimate of $15-20k to import a good GTR and then reco the motor here, may need to be revised, in my opinion.

also, I can't understand why you would want to bring a 'dead' engine into Aus; better to bring in a car with a decent engine if you are intent on doing the import thing. otherwise why not just buy a car in Aus with a clapped-out motor and replace it?.

anyway, that's a heads up on my importing experience. good luck with it; there a great car!!.

thanks for the replies... i would prefer to find one in aus... however i want one in completly original condition. by tidy i mean straight.. paint will be being freshened up while the engine is out, bushes and some suspension components will be replaced at the same time.. basically i want a stock, accident free gtr, that doesnt have cutouts for strut braces, gauges mounted in the dash, 300km speedos, etc.. even if everythings stock, but clapped out.. most of it will be refreshed to make it like it just rolled out of the factory.

ive seen some here in aus for $25000 and some for below $15000... most of them however are modified.. $25000 to $30000 will get me a late model v spec.. but for 15 years it could have had a tortured life and the engine may give way on the drive home.. so id rather, for piece of mind, rebuild the engine and replace all the sensors, etc. ive seen one go for $10000 that needed a rebuild and some slight panel work...

time frame is not an issue, labour and workshops arent an issue.

i wasnt after replys on my idea... just if those cars ever came up at auctions..

you'd be better off finding one locally and maybe buying a n1 motor from japan to drop in?

that was an idea... but they are getting fairly thin on the ground.. i could get an r33 engine and go over it before dropping it in, but then it would be a 32 with a 33 engine... which doesnt sit well with me.. i think the original engine, provided its death hasnt cause too much destruction will be fine with a few new components... especially for what i want it to do, which is to sit in the shed pretty much.

thank you for the short answer... that was all i was after... i will venture down other paths.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
×
×
  • Create New...