Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

so im doing some planning and budgeting to get an r32 gtr in a year.. ive decided that i want to freshen the engine up anyway, so im wondering how often does an immaculate or tidy stock gtr come up for sale in japan with a dead or almost dead engine?? roughly looking at spending $10ish on the car and $5-10 on the engine... as opposed to buying a tidy 25g gtr and having it blow up the next day.. the rebuild will be using standard components, to standard specs, nothing fancy.. but just to give piece of mind.

are these cars even eligable for import or sale??

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267945-r32-gtr-with-dead-engine/
Share on other sites

the price difference between an 'imaculate' R32 GTR and a 'tidy' one in Japan is considerable. so you would need to get a better idea of what you actually want before you start this exercise. $10k AU=JPY700000 [approx]; have a look on the auction sites and see what that will buy, definately not 'imaculate', probably not 'tidy' either. I imported a 32 GTR about a year ago and the import costs totalled approx $8.5k AU; that's car registered and on the road [not incl insurance]. so your estimate of $15-20k to import a good GTR and then reco the motor here, may need to be revised, in my opinion.

also, I can't understand why you would want to bring a 'dead' engine into Aus; better to bring in a car with a decent engine if you are intent on doing the import thing. otherwise why not just buy a car in Aus with a clapped-out motor and replace it?.

anyway, that's a heads up on my importing experience. good luck with it; there a great car!!.

thanks for the replies... i would prefer to find one in aus... however i want one in completly original condition. by tidy i mean straight.. paint will be being freshened up while the engine is out, bushes and some suspension components will be replaced at the same time.. basically i want a stock, accident free gtr, that doesnt have cutouts for strut braces, gauges mounted in the dash, 300km speedos, etc.. even if everythings stock, but clapped out.. most of it will be refreshed to make it like it just rolled out of the factory.

ive seen some here in aus for $25000 and some for below $15000... most of them however are modified.. $25000 to $30000 will get me a late model v spec.. but for 15 years it could have had a tortured life and the engine may give way on the drive home.. so id rather, for piece of mind, rebuild the engine and replace all the sensors, etc. ive seen one go for $10000 that needed a rebuild and some slight panel work...

time frame is not an issue, labour and workshops arent an issue.

i wasnt after replys on my idea... just if those cars ever came up at auctions..

you'd be better off finding one locally and maybe buying a n1 motor from japan to drop in?

that was an idea... but they are getting fairly thin on the ground.. i could get an r33 engine and go over it before dropping it in, but then it would be a 32 with a 33 engine... which doesnt sit well with me.. i think the original engine, provided its death hasnt cause too much destruction will be fine with a few new components... especially for what i want it to do, which is to sit in the shed pretty much.

thank you for the short answer... that was all i was after... i will venture down other paths.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...