Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok! I think I've nailed it this time!.............

You didn't lower the motor at all! You raised the bonnet!! ....and the guards....! .......and er, the doors - which would then lead around the boot - so you must have raised that too I suspect... yesssssss.... that's it I think.....

No one doesn't not call me a lateral thinker..! (!)

...I'm up to a Carton and half now...

Yep changed the car to fit the engine :P

Have sent Steve-o the pics, you'll have it in no time.....the last one(long shot) gives it away :D

Edited by Simonster
  • Replies 277
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i can see the pics but cant tell what has been done, maybe its because im viewing the thread via mobile phone, although, the intake pipe looks to be sitting lower than usual

Even if that was the case, it doesnt solve the problem of cam cover clearance

stevo has listed them in reverse order, it's the first one i was referring to....

hmm good to see you've got your thinking caps on, keep going!!

Well... that's me out of ideas. I've stared long and hard at those photos and I can't see anything that gives me a clue. Does the bonnet really close??

I'm out.

Well... that's me out of ideas. I've stared long and hard at those photos and I can't see anything that gives me a clue. Does the bonnet really close??

I'm out.

Ive spent a fair bit of time on those photos and re-reading the comments and all i can observe from the photos the "twin turbo" badge has left a imprint on the bonnets underlayer/heat protection

"I've previously said i'd modded the engine mounts to lower the car ~3mm clearance from the cross member Marko"

"Sump is standard depth, much bigger though, 8 litres"

Is car meant to be engine?

I was going to say the bracings been cut and just covered up and the twin turbo badge pressed against it

However i cant see the cam cover making an imprint, that combined with droppin the engine a few MM from the engine mounts make enough clearance?

other then that im out too

space the cross member down from the chassis is my guess

mmm thinking cap in the right place there! :(

The imprint from the twin turbo badge was before the mods were done. You are correct, the bonet closes with no problems :)

The cam cover does not touch the bonnet :)

Mick ( who made the engine fit ) has gone on holidays for 2 weeks, so until he comes back i can't really so yes to how it's done, i'm waiting to hear is he is willing to give away his secrets.

mmm thinking cap in the right place there! :(

The imprint from the twin turbo badge was before the mods were done. You are correct, the bonet closes with no problems :)

The cam cover does not touch the bonnet :)

Mick ( who made the engine fit ) has gone on holidays for 2 weeks, so until he comes back i can't really so yes to how it's done, i'm waiting to hear is he is willing to give away his secrets.

Ahh. ok. Well if its just spacing the subframe down then we already knew about that - but apparently this is no good for roll-centre.. (as to how ~much~ it affects it I don't know). Perhaps then he's done a drop of 3mm on the engine mounts and just 2mm on the subframe to give an effective 5mm drop - which might be just enough?

Can anyone comment on how 'bad' dropping the sub frame really is? 2-3mm doesn't sound like much but a 5mm ride height change from front to rear is noticable by many, so this may or may not be a bad geometry change.. ?

Alright so no one goes off an a tangent, the subframe hasn't been changed, its standard.

I didn't say any of you are on the right track.... just that thinking caps are on....... :D

ooooo.... you suck!!! :)

:) ok, well then I'm back only to bribing you with beer... its all I have left. Take it.. Take my last beer. (how sad my life has now become...)

Gee Simon, if you don't put them out of their misery I might have to take a bribe and go ask Mick myself :P

Mate I hope you do! I am right in the middle of getting a new bonnet sorted out and would like to spray it, and put it on. I'm holding off though because I don't want to have to chop it if I don't need to..

Mate I hope you do! I am right in the middle of getting a new bonnet sorted out and would like to spray it, and put it on. I'm holding off though because I don't want to have to chop it if I don't need to..

I dont know why the secret has not been released as yet lol, btw this is a forum which is a repository for others to benefit from...anyway, everyone is different i guess

Gee Simon, if you don't put them out of their misery I might have to take a bribe and go ask Mick myself :P

In all seriousness, dont. Its something he has spent a long time on worked out and i wont just give it away. As i said he's on holidays, another week to go. But i doubt he'll give it as it's his proprietry. Just like some shops with their engine "secrets". :P

Edited by Simonster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others
    • The larger TB I had on the SS was a pain to get to idle right, but, that was cable In the end they just raised the idle up a couple of hundred RPM so it was happy idling away either in gear or in park (slush box life) I'm curious on how my NC will idle with the new intake, larger TB, and cams that are currently going in/on, but I have faith that MX5 Mania will sort this "electronical" "black magic" out the best they can in the tune with a electronic TB Sometimes I wish I knew more about the intricacies of tuning, but most of the time I don't because I know it would hurt my brain 馃ぃ
    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
  • Create New...