R34 Gt-t Clutch Install Guide

[snozzle]

Hey guys i changed a friends clutch over the weekend in his R34 gt-t (pull-type)

I am not going to go into too much detail, im going to be brief and only expand on a few things that i thought might be handy for people that have experience with push type clutches but have not done a pull type before.

*If you are not mechanicly minded or you dont have any experience, i would not recommend you doing this*

So what do you need?

-you obviously need a replacement clutch, in my case it was a 3 puck exedy (awesome clutch)

-clutch alignment tool

-new thrust bearing - if it doesnt come with your clutch kit, order one through nissan

-new rear main seal - you must change this unless u dont mind taking the gearbox back off again when it starts leaking

-new spigot bush - not essential but you have the gearbox off so you might aswell change it too its only 5 dollars

-a hoist of some sort, doing this on the ground is just silly.. it can be done but its just silly lol

Ok so you have the car on the hoist..

-before you lift the car up start by taking the gearshifter off the gearbox, remove the gearknob/gearboot cover and also the secondary gearboot which is held in by 4 10mm bolts, you then cut the cable tie holding the gearshifter boot on the gearbox, there is a circlip that needs to be taken off before the stick will come out as shown below, put the gearshifter into 1st it will give you abit more room to work with

-once u have the circlip off, put it back into nuetral then pull it out, dont let the oil drip around, have a rag handy

-1 more thing before you lift the car up, so the engine can tilt freely when the gearbox is dropped you should undo a few things inside the engine bay depending on the modifications of the car, in my case all i undid was the intercooler piping and the radiator brackets just incase the fan pushed up against the top of the shroud but it didnt end up moving much anyway

-once the car is up high, remove the exhaust and the cat converter sheild which is held in by 2 10mm bolts or else it will get in the way, possibly even cut you haha its quite sharp

-remove tail shaft

-drain the gearbox oil

-unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot

-you will see something like this when you look inside the bell housing:

-remove the clip that is sitting at the top side of the fork from your view, the pin that is going through the fork should drop down, you may need to get a flat head screw driver and guide it down, make sure you collect the pieces that fall down once the gearbox is off, do not lose them

-this alows the fork to seperate from the thrust bearing which is clipped onto the pressure plate

-it is essential you do this before you try to take the gearbox off the engine because it will get jammed and will not come off

-now you can undo the gearbox cross member from the 4 x 17mm bolts and let the tail of the box drop

-remove the cross membor from the box by the 2 x 12mm nuts that are holding it onto the gearbox mount

-you should now be able to unclip the 3 sensors and move them aside

-have a gearbox holding hydraulic platform ready if u have one otherwise if your ronnie coleman u can just bicep curl it i guess

-undo all the gearbox bolts, the hardest one would have to be the top starter motor bolt, i used many different extensions and angled connectors to get to it, see what u can do

-gearbox should come off now

-now that the box is off and its pushed aside where u wont trip over it (safety first guys.. hehe), collect the fork, pin, washer and clip out of the bell housing and put them aside

-pull the thrust bearing off the pressure plate

-remove the pressure plate (9 x 12mm) and clutch disc

-remove the flywheel (6 x 17mm) and get it machined flat (not essential but highly highly recommend)

-now is your chance to replace the rear main seal and the spigot bush (if you dont know how to do this or you dont have the tools to do it, do NOt touch it because if you damage it and your stuck halfway, your in the shit..)

-once you get your flyhweel back, make sure the flywheel bolts are clean (6 x 19mm) and bolt it back on, you can use loctite thread locker if your padantic about it but if you have a strong rattle gun the strongest setting should do the trick (do not over do it either), it should look something like this;

double check the bolts and make sure there is no oil or grease on the surface

-install the clutch disc and pressure plate, again making sure the surfaces clean, using a clutch alignment tool is handy and will help the gearbox to slide in easily when your fitting it

double check all the bolts again, you cant be too careful

-back to the gearbox, fitment of the thrust bearing isnt all that tricky, theres only 1 way it will fit, this is what it should look like;

-there is a straight edge on the head of the pin that fits against a straight edge on the fork, make sure they correspond, the washer sits under the clip and the clip goes thru the pin and into a small hole on the fork

-if you are happy with everything, proceed, if you are hesistant about anything, ask for advice because you dont want to pull the box back off because of something stupid

-make sure the thrust bearing is all the way back, once the box is fully on, u then pull the fork towards the rear of the car and it clicks in place onto the pressure plate

-re-fitting the gearbox was abit of a pain, i had to undo the engine mount nuts halfway to allow the engine to tilt abit more than what it was and luckily it was just enough, also be careful with the input shaft, it can damage the ring on center the pressure plate so just be gentle, DONT force anything, get the angle right, then push steadily

-once you have the box on and seated in place insert the 2 bolts on each side of the box, and then all the others in the same manner you removed it, including the tricky top starter motor bolt hehe

-now you can push the fork so gently so u hear a click noise, it should not come back out, if it doesn, you have damaged something the circular clip that holds the thrust bearing and you will need to remove the gearbox off, this is very important

-once your happy tighten back up the engine mount nuts if u undid them like i did

-connect up the plugs for the sensors and tuck them away safely as they were previously inside those bendy black things

-use the hydraulic stand to lift the tail of the box back up, install the gearbox crossmember as u removed it

-refit tail shaft, slave cylinder, cat convertor sheild, exhaust, gear shifter etc

-undo the filler plug on the side of the box with a long breaker bar and fill the box with oil (approx 3.5L) i used redline lightweight, worth every penny, made the box really smooth and got rid of the notchyness

-put the car down, refit all the stuff you pulled off inside the engine bay to allow the engine to tilt previously (intercooler pipes etc)

-go over everything, make sure you dont have any bolts left over, or any parts

now you can drop a skid .. not really, its best to bed the clutch in for the first 500kms or so with easy driving, then a skid or two

i will proof read this later, feel free to ask me any questions

thanks

oz

Edited May 2, 2009 by snozzle

[GazzaR]

nice write up oz

[skyline[32]]

Wow i blow my clutch and you write up about replacing the clutch, aren't I lucky .

Thanks heaps great help.

[KEN-R34]

Oz done a great job on my clutch! Gj bro drives like a dream.

Yeah the 3 puk is a great clutch and it’s a comfortable drive believe it or not.

Exedy all the way baby!

[nickem]

got any tightening torques for the pressure plate + flywheel?

[snozzle]

sorry mate i dont have those figures as i couldnt find a service manual anywhere

i have a torque gun that does the job for me, time and time over does the trick

[DamageInc]

124-152nm on the flywheel

34-44nm on the clutch bolt

those figures are for an rb25det ;D

[snozzle]

Thanks for the figures, it wont let me edit my first post, if i could id put them figures in

[DamageInc]

Thanks for the figures, it wont let me edit my first post, if i could id put them figures in

No worries mate ;D

[battery]

-new rear main seal - you must change this unless u dont mind taking the gearbox back off again when it starts leaking

sorry but how does changing a clutch make the rear main seal leak?

i'd say its a more of a must to change the spigot bush!

[snozzle]

i didnt say it will start leaking because you have removed the gearbox/clutch etc etc, but its stupid to not change it while the gearbox is already off, why would u take the box off again just for 1 seal in 'x' amount of time ? it could be a week later it could be years, why take the chance

[battery]

i didnt say it will start leaking because you have removed the gearbox/clutch etc etc, but its stupid to not change it while the gearbox is already off, why would u take the box off again just for 1 seal in 'x' amount of time ? it could be a week later it could be years, why take the chance

yeh fair enough, but the way you said it at first may confuse the noobs.

another thing you should add is a rear extension housing seal, it goes in where the tailshaft enters the box, this will often leak if its not changed after removing the tailshaft.

not many of us will have access to a hoist and i wouldn't say its "silly" to do it on the ground, best advice i could give is get someone who's done it before to help/watch.

[Jembo]

Good write up Oz

[KEN-R34]

1.yeh fair enough, but the way you said it at first may confuse the noobs.

another thing you should add is a rear extension housing seal, it goes in where the tailshaft enters the box, this will often leak if its not changed after removing the tailshaft.

2.not many of us will have access to a hoist and i wouldn't say its "silly" to do it on the ground, best advice i could give is get someone who's done it before to help/watch.

1. *If you are not mechanically minded or you don’t have any experience, I would not recommend you doing this* this is not a noob Guide as stated.

2. The RB25 is a heavy gearbox and if you talk to anyone "mechanically minded" they would tell you it is "silly" to do this on the ground, but it’s your choice.

Oh I forgot to add, if you are a human crane it would be a walk in the park on the ground e.g. Ronnie Coleman/Jay Cutler. Tail shaft in one hand, box in the other and leg pressing the whole car of the ground at the same time. Now you can watch but I dont think you could help much. . . .

Edited June 8, 2009 by KEN-R34

[TriniGT]

What sort of power is that Exedy 3 puck hold and will it be good for a GT3076R on full chat? My clutch is slipping and I need one by end of year. what sort of cost was it as well?

[snozzle]

thats not an easy question to answer, how much boost/power are u expecting/getting from the car? ive seen sum pretty mean rb25's making over 500 with a 3076 but most ppl get about 400hp out of them on the stock engine

you would have to ask the people who sell the clutch to you, they will have approx power figures, but to be honest, i dont see why it cant, its got a pretty decent clamp load on it, and bites very hard

[turboedsloth]

i do my clutch's on the ground it isnt that hard. even done one at a track event. quick question did you grease the thrust bearing? i didnt see any on it in the pic you took

[snozzle]

yes grease was put on the surface that rubs up and down the input shaft housing, its quite easy to forget little things like that lol

sp1g0t bush was also filled with oil before installation if u really want to get descriptive..

i spelt that word with numbers coz it converts it to scopot automatically.. lol wtf

Edited November 5, 2009 by snozzle

[battery]

rb20 boxes are pretty easy to do on the ground by yourself.

i have done a rb25 box on the ground by myself definitely not easy but can be done with a bit of imagination.

GTR boxes almost impossible to do by your self, but not to bad with two people.

i sit the car on some busted 9" wide rims at each wheel then put the box on a trolley jack roll it in and jack up, they slide in very easy aslong as you have the box on the right angle.

[snozzle]

yep, its all about the right angle