Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

will have to ask ken for that one, he purchased it from slide performance

pm him tomorrow 'KEN-R34'

for the record.. ive got my hands on an r34 gt-t too now, i cannot wait to burn this stock clutch out and put a 3 puck in it!! muahaha

Edited by snozzle
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

changing flywheel bolts is not a bad idea, if they have been used over and over you most probably want to change them, if the clutch has never been changed, i wouldnt be too fussed

the clutch install will be identical however removing and re-installing the gearbox will involve a few more steps, if you need any specific help just PM.

hope that helps

  • 3 years later...

question gents how did you guys manage to remove the topmost bolt on the exhaust side. Did you have to remove the dump pipe at all cant see anything fitting in there and its harder than even the starter bolt. This is the one i have left before dropping the box.

managed to take out that bolt i was asking about before. Now my question is i have taken all the bolts pretty certain. But the box in not dislodging from the engine. I pulled out the pin that holds the throw out bearing too

Hey Bryce, im doing it too today on my Stagea. I know the bolt your talking about, mine was even worse (GTR box is longer)!

The box should start to separate with abit of a wiggle, if not, you must have missed one.

had the same problem, as my starter motor moulding was fouling on the tunnel. Had to get really close, then rotate it to position at the last minute to line up & pop in.

Did you use a clutch aligning tool or by feel?

The aligning tool I used wasn't perfect either. You have to feel & equal the distance between the clutch & pressure plate through the three gaps where the pressure plate springs attach to the diaphragm. Tighten the bolts up evenly & oppositely. Make sure you can move the aligning tool a few times to make sure it moves.

As long as those three gaps are fairly equal, it will be pretty much spot on. This the first time I've actually used an alignment tool (the apprentice did a clutch in his 33 & I thought I'd give it a go).

  • 2 years later...
  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...