Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by B-Man

Oh Shit - and I nearly fell for it :P:) :)

he he he

Nice one Andrew !

Oh and BTW - I thought DD numbers couldn't be fudged :);)

bullshit B-Man you DID fall for it!!!!

:bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: I cannot believe so many ppl fell for it, reminds of the story from the PF dyno day with the 200kw beetle :bahaha:

That photo of Andrew in front of the dyno readout is a classic.

Is he surprised? happy? happily suprised?

Is he thinking: OMFG!!!

It deserves to be on the front opening page for SAU...

"Sydney based enthusiast sets high power mark for stock Skylines" ...The National Enquirer

T.

Originally posted by Duncan

btw, is 103rwkw right for the tubro integra? seems low, it should be around 100 stock (140ish at the flywheel).

Some good numbers there, might just be time to start modding :P

Yeah, it is very low...

Stock DC2 (earlier model) Type-Rs were putting out about 90-95kw @ wheels stock.

Originally posted by T0nyGTSt

That photo of Andrew in front of the dyno readout is a classic.

Is he surprised? happy? happily suprised?

Is he thinking: OMFG!!!

It deserves to be on the front opening page for SAU...

"Sydney based enthusiast sets high power mark for stock Skylines" ...The National Enquirer

T.

That was me covering my mouth trying VERY VERY hard not to laugh...

Jim and I were sitting in the car doing the power runs, laughing our tits off and screaming out stupid things like:

"500?? Oh, I must have it set on low boost",

"Wow, that's one big nitrous shot!", and

"Increase the scale on the graph. 1000kw should do it"

:bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha:

Well done guys, had a great day, that BBQ fire was huge, nice 1,

Buster: nice machine

Nick: Thanks for the invite

i got 170.8KW, with, 3" exhaust, Pod air filter, everything else stock, not too bad, ill see what a front mount can do next time...

Thx for all

Craig

plenty o mods :)

it was good to see the look on nicks face "damn you for not telling me about this" :)

should have made more than that, i was hoping for around 220 or so but meh, its tuned for economy at the moment and i have problems with the actuator, after my trip to queensland in december i'll try to fix it all up

Thanks Guys had a good day.

At least I know whats wrong now.

thanks to teh dyno day....

So I'll get it fixed asap.

car is running rediculously rich!!!!

sweet.

Anyone got pics of the whole day?

Go Buster man, Your Car is an absolute animal...

respect to the gtst..... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...