Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if the front/dump pipe of a r33 gtst is the same as the ones for a s1 stag... dont see why it wouldnbt be as their both running rb25det's.

Justjap also have the same pipe listed for r33/r32 and wgnc34's....

Thinking about buying a 3" bellmouth zx force dump pipe tomorrow for the stag. Then time for a retune of SAFCII, SITC and EBC and i think im done on engine mods till its time for a bigger whistling friend. Maybe time for some slotted rotors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268139-frontdump-pipe-same-as-r33/
Share on other sites

I think if you buy one of the cheap brand dump pipes the R33 & R32 are the same pipe, the one I got for my 32 didn't sit quite right, so I suspect it was an R33 one. I used the one off my 32 on my S2 stagea and I had to cut it and realign the angle at the bottom straight section. Also had to add about 25mm length to the pipe to get it to meet up properly, this is for the S2 though.

Well chad how about I be the test dummy and ill post up how it goes :P

Also when are we taking both our racing heart equiped stags out with jetskis in tow?

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

JJR dump pipe i got of justjap was listed for s2 .

think JJR forgot about the crossmember. had cut and straighten out the front/dump to fit it.

not alot of work. but for one that is listed to fit, it should fit

had the same thing with my s2 and the just jap bellmouth.. the quality at the turbo end flange was very average to.

i would not recomend the jjr bellmouth as you will need to spend the extra money going to the exhaust shop for them to fix it

Ok so it did fit.

When i first started the car their was a VERY ANOYING WEIIR vibration coming through the floor of the car around the G box area. Last for about 20 secs.. then dissapeared? Thinking it might have been hitting the floor of the stag, then settled itself down?

Drove around for a bit to let the beast warm up then gave it some. Car hit highest boost it ever has (13.something psi) so I turned down the ebc till it was hitting 12. So it must have made a difference :D

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

Sure man, sounds good. I should be picking up the Stag on Wednesday, I'll prob be cruising around all weekend in it :P

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

If it keeps doing it just take it down to an exhaust shop and they should be able to heat the pipe and bend it slightly, if its stainless it might be to hard to bend.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

Yep that'll work if you haven't got a gas set and its just touching in one small area.

Hey Chris, good to hear you got it on.

When i fitted mine myself, if you remember i wasn't too sure if it was on/sealed 100%. So when i got my 100k service, i got the guys at Boostworx to have a look at it. They told me a couple of bolts had dropped off (probably because i didn't/couldn't get them tight enough to start with) and they redid the entire thing properly. Maybe it's a bolt rattling around somewhere?

Hi nick! Long time no see :P Yeah their a prick to get at those bolts but it wont be one loose.... Got to them all in the end did change one of them to a 6mm allen key so it had a smaller head cos the bolt was fouling on the dump.

Dont really want boostworx doing much to the stag apart from tuning safcII and SITC truth be known, but we'll keep why off the forums :( cos their good blokes.

Well I went to D N T performance (exhaust shop here in adelaide) on sat to get a 3" off cut to do the intake pipe mod, while i was their I told them about the dump pip tapping the floor. They said to unbolt the cat back and just pull the dump pipe downwards to bend it a tiny bit. Yesterday arvo gave it a good yank and its all sweeettttt :blink:

your alot more game than i would be, pulling down on the pipe, i'd be worried about damaging the turbo casting. lol

just take it to the exhaust shop you went to and see if they'll fix it up for you, if you go in they aren't too busy, and you have cash with you, they'll probably fix it up cheap for you. it will only need to be cut and re-angled, maybe a small length added into it. shouldn't need to take the pipe out to fix up, we didn't when i fitted mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...