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  • 1 month later...

Its not on the cross member (well mine isnt any more i took like 2mm off it with the grinder) now ive looked at it when it was on a hoist at a mates work and its tapping the floor every so slightly....

Ive found a workshop that qouted me $15 to fix it its just their where our holiday house is so i need to book in advance when i know im gonna be down their cos thats a good 35 cheaper than anywhere else so im gonna wait. Some times it doesnt even do it anyway. If you wanted I think you could wrap it where it taps in exhaust wrap then its not metal on metal and it would probably be fine.... Truth be known Im not gonna f**k around with pulling it of the turbo just to wrap it when i can get it heated and bent for 15..

yeh thats a good point. its just when i looked at it i couldnt see it touching on the floor anywhere, but it was touching the crossmember....might speak to a mate from castle hill exhausts see what he says....

yeh thats a good point. its just when i looked at it i couldnt see it touching on the floor anywhere, but it was touching the crossmember....might speak to a mate from castle hill exhausts see what he says....

Yeah, I just tried to fit a stainless JJR Bellmouth dump/front pipe and high flow cat from JustJap and there were fitment problems.

The top flange had to be remachined flat and I would recommend quality new nissan factory gaskets for leaks.

They said that these might be R33 items after being told they were stagea specific.

They had the same rattling problem next to the gearbox/crossmember and tried to bend it to fit better, but the stainless steel was too strong.

The HKS silent zorst went on without an issue as good quality products do.

I would probably opt for a hks or tomei dump of better quality with a seperate front pipe.

I had to keep the existing factory dump and buy a slightly molested Trust front pipe to get back on the road.

Should have been a very simple thing, annoying on a small budget.

Edited by dirtyrs4

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