Poor Skyline Decided Enough Was Enough :-(

[miss_ditzi]

Now just going to see a friend tonight and put a full tank of bp fuel in it from yatala. Never had any dramas before etc. Got to the coast and driving along she starts to loose power and miss and fart coming onto even the smallest amount of boost... Now the boost was set at stock so nothing more than 6-7psi... I thought I better pull over somewhere just to make sure I don't do any damage... Now I stopped the car and hopped out and had a look etc to check intercooler piping and vaccum hoses etc but all seemed fine. When I jumped back in to start her she started and then started idling irradically and then as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator she just gave up the ghost :-( Now I'm wondering if anyone could give me a clue as to what it could be. A few ppl have said air flow meter and it will be something I will be testing soon... Just really need any other info or if anyone else has had this simialr thing happen to them

Oh and it's an R33 series 2 manual.

Thanks :-)

[Mick]

yes a vacum hose will do that, i had the plenum to fuel pressure reg hose blow off and it gave me that but even when i replaced the hose it was still running bad bec i fried a few spark plugs.

What i would do first is run the ecu self diagnostic mode by using a hair pin in the consult port to see if u get any errors, this diagnostics will check quite a few sensors including your afm

[Mick]

its a very simple thing to do, there are instructions available on this forum, just search for r33 ecu diagnostics

The ecu might be in limp home mode if there is a problem, so hopefully no real damage has been done apart from maybe a sensor.

I had my SAFC die once and the car was running bad and stalling and wouldnt drive bacause the computer was spliced into the Air Flow Meter of it was basicaly like the afm waqs unplugged, but the car wouldnt idle and kept dying.

Edited May 2, 2009 by Mick

[miss_ditzi]

Ah ok yea I had a friend mention pluggin in the computer and doing diagnostic testing on it but can't do that for a few weeks unfortunately. I can get access to another air flow meter to see if that is the issue but damn its so annoying :-( Any other things which it could be???

[Mick]

miss ditzi the diagnostics im talking about doesnt cost anything, there is a computer scantool that nissan use that they plug up to your car but that costs money, what im talking about is a free diy diagnostics, all u need to do is turn the ignition on and stick a hair pin in the consult port which is located near the fuse panel to the lower right of the steering wheel, you bridge two pins in the grey consult port with a hair pin or paper clip for about 2 seconds and then remove it and the orange engine check light on your dash will start to flash, the flashes will be long and short flashes which will give you a code, for example 5 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes is code 55 which means everything is good, i carnt remember how many codes there are from memory but it does check quite a few things including the air flow meter. I highly recommend you run this test, if your airflow meter is stuffed it will tell you in this test. If you have troubles finding the instructions on how to do it just let me know and i'll find it for you.

If your still a bit unsure how to do it after reading the instructions you can pm me and i'll give you my number and i'll help you do it step by step over the phone. Its very simple to do.

[Get EPIC]

miss ditzi the diagnostics im talking about doesnt cost anything, there is a computer scantool that nissan use that they plug up to your car but that costs money, what im talking about is a free diy diagnostics, all u need to do is turn the ignition on and stick a hair pin in the consult port which is located near the fuse panel to the lower right of the steering wheel, you bridge two pins in the grey consult port with a hair pin or paper clip for about 2 seconds and then remove it and the orange engine check light on your dash will start to flash, the flashes will be long and short flashes which will give you a code, for example 5 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes is code 55 which means everything is good, i carnt remember how many codes there are from memory but it does check quite a few things including the air flow meter. I highly recommend you run this test, if your airflow meter is stuffed it will tell you in this test. If you have troubles finding the instructions on how to do it just let me know and i'll find it for you.

If your still a bit unsure how to do it after reading the instructions you can pm me and i'll give you my number and i'll help you do it step by step over the phone. Its very simple to do.

does this work if u have a power fc?

[miss_ditzi]

miss ditzi the diagnostics im talking about doesnt cost anything, there is a computer scantool that nissan use that they plug up to your car but that costs money, what im talking about is a free diy diagnostics, all u need to do is turn the ignition on and stick a hair pin in the consult port which is located near the fuse panel to the lower right of the steering wheel, you bridge two pins in the grey consult port with a hair pin or paper clip for about 2 seconds and then remove it and the orange engine check light on your dash will start to flash, the flashes will be long and short flashes which will give you a code, for example 5 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes is code 55 which means everything is good, i carnt remember how many codes there are from memory but it does check quite a few things including the air flow meter. I highly recommend you run this test, if your airflow meter is stuffed it will tell you in this test. If you have troubles finding the instructions on how to do it just let me know and i'll find it for you.

If your still a bit unsure how to do it after reading the instructions you can pm me and i'll give you my number and i'll help you do it step by step over the phone. Its very simple to do.

well see thats the problem its come down to now... we unplugged the airflow meter and it still ran like shit, ie idles low and then as soon as you try to press the accelerator it dies in the arse...

[Benzino33]

miss ditzi the diagnostics im talking about doesnt cost anything, there is a computer scantool that nissan use that they plug up to your car but that costs money, what im talking about is a free diy diagnostics, all u need to do is turn the ignition on and stick a hair pin in the consult port which is located near the fuse panel to the lower right of the steering wheel, you bridge two pins in the grey consult port with a hair pin or paper clip for about 2 seconds and then remove it and the orange engine check light on your dash will start to flash, the flashes will be long and short flashes which will give you a code, for example 5 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes is code 55 which means everything is good, i carnt remember how many codes there are from memory but it does check quite a few things including the air flow meter. I highly recommend you run this test, if your airflow meter is stuffed it will tell you in this test. If you have troubles finding the instructions on how to do it just let me know and i'll find it for you.

If your still a bit unsure how to do it after reading the instructions you can pm me and i'll give you my number and i'll help you do it step by step over the phone. Its very simple to do.

wow i didnt kno that..will be checkin my car for any codes today

[miss_ditzi]

Could it be the fuel pump itself at all coz that would explain the cutting out and carrying on if its not getting enough fuel... coz it kinda makes sense that when i start it that she doesnt idle properly and that as soon as i accelerate she dies :-(

Oh also... is there the possibility of it being the alternator...

Edited May 3, 2009 by miss_ditzi

[Mick]

Guvna1 - No the ecu diagnostics doesnt work if you have a power fc, its only for the factory ecu

Miss Ditzi - It may be a failing pump, and im pretty sure if the alternator is stuffed that the battery light on the dash will be on. There is so many things it could be thats why it is such a good idea to run the self diagnostics, as i explained its very easy and even someone with no knowledge can do this test, and it checks so many things.

Turn Ignition ON

Bridge the Blue/Yellow Wire pin & Yellow/Red Wire pin on the Grey Consult Port beside the fuses near steering wheel.

The diagram below is from the mating pin side, not from the top wire side, there the 2 pins together.

|O|OO|OO|OO|

|X|XO|OO|OO|

You bridge them with a paperclip and hold it for 2 to 3 seconds and then remove the paperclip.

The Orange Engine Check Light on the Dash will flash out a code (or series of codes if there is more than one fault)

Long Flash = first digit

Short Flash = second digit

eg long, long, short = code 21.

Error Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit

13 Coolent temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

Its very simple, and as i said if you still carnt work it out you can pm me