Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Question On Intercooler Fitting

Mouseness
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mouseness Contributor

Mouseness

Posted
Posted

Got the cooler and pipework off a mates r34 skyline, so i figured it would be a pretty straight forward swap

but just wondering what this is in the pipe coming off the manifold. Is it something to do with the dual stage boost?

first two pics show what im talking about, 3rd pic is the pipe that will be in its place. Which has nothing on it to transfer it over..

dsc00409ghj.jpg

dsc00410k.jpg

dsc00411lkv.jpg

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

nope, it is there for a reason, you need to connect it up or blow off to atmosphere, which may be illegal in some/all areas. Without one can cause pressure surges and damage to turbo/engine.

1000th POST !!! woohoo

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted
nope, it is there for a reason, you need to connect it up or blow off to atmosphere, which may be illegal in some/all areas. Without one can cause pressure surges and damage to turbo/engine.

nope, untrue. you can run without one, you'll just get 'flutter'

don't really want to start a debate on compressor surge though

plenty of turbo motors came from factory without a bov, for instance the ca18det

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

its debatable weather you need the bov or not. IMO i'm with chook, in that you need to run one. alot of people choose not to run a bov but this is usually on aftermarket turbo setups.

also with the stock bov you just cant run it to atmo, the factory bov is designed to pass on vacuum, so you will get eratic idle and constant stalling. your going to have to get an adapter plate made up to fit it to the new pipe.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
nope, untrue. you can run without one, you'll just get 'flutter'

don't really want to start a debate on compressor surge though

plenty of turbo motors came from factory without a bov, for instance the ca18det

to add to this, the RB20DET out of a R32 comes factory with a bov, same engine in an A31 cefiro does not :P

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

yep, sorry, factory one cant blow to atmos, meant to mention aftermarket BOVs for this. But i still would not want to run around without one, especially with higher than stock boost.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger#Wastegate

Mouseness Contributor

Mouseness

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It has a bov on the new pipework, so thats no drama

i just want to know how to disconnect that one and do away with it all

Theres a line that runs down to behind the pod intake.. and a line off that one that goes up to what i think is maybe a solenoid or something with another line that runs down to the waste gate?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

ok. i drew some arrows on the pic you gave. the larger pipe with the red arrow pointing to it, just block off, if you dont you will be creating a large vacuum leak. the smaller one with the yellow arrow, run it to the new bov.

post-34711-1241329881_thumb.jpg

Mouseness Contributor

Mouseness

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks heaps quick32

Been trying to find that out for hours :P

It's coming along alright so far, would be close to finishing it all in one day but im sick as hell with some sort of flu.

You can see on the right where the bov is now, hks ss. Not bad considering my mate gave the whole lot to me for $250.

dsc00414z.jpg

Mouseness Contributor

Mouseness

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks jez. Pretty much got it all done, have neatly cut out the front bar to fit around it.

Just gotta get a bit of hose to run down to the bov and block off that vacuum line.

The boost sensor hose was also fitted in there too, is there an easy spot to re locate that or should i just tap a thread into the new piping and run it where it was originally?

but yeah, im done with this swine flu.. medication, beer and bed for me.

thanks guys, its been a productive day :P

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Are you still using the factory boost solenoid? Some of the lines you were describing sounded like the lines to and from the boost solenoid to the actuator etc. Whereabouts are you located? I am sure another member would be happy to come around and have a look at your set-up.

Mouseness Contributor

Mouseness

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im near brisbane Kiwi.

I got it all sorted out, everything works fine except it likes stalling when i tap the throttle. Im guessing this is because ive just blocked off the pre existing plumb back pipe and not connected it to the new bov?

any way around it? Took it for a test run then up the highway through town and the girl in the landcruiser beside me found it hilarious that i stalled the auto twice trying to take off. She actually slowed down while laughing.. :P

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

sounds like you have a vacuum leak mate. have you checked that you hooked everything back up? there aren't any vacuum line floating around not hooked up are there? it will still run ok even if you block up the stock bov and dont run one.

how far out of bris are you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • Duncan
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Duncan · Posted

      300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • Murray_Calavera
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...