Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
you CAN fit te37's with good offset on a gtst, you just have to work the guards a bit.... not a widebody kit, just a roll/flare and its done

easy 18x10 +12 fit... and with te's you really dont need any more dish than that

Any photos of this??? would be interesting to see :) ... also does anyone have some photos of big wheels with flared guards (standard guards)

Since the R33 has a curvy character and i think (purely subjective) that the more squarey shaped wheels e.g. TE37's, LMGT4's, even XD9's don't bring out the best in the car, they suit boxier shapes like R32s and R34s. Rims with sharp ends like Buddy Club P1's, Work Emotion KR Cai's, even BBS styles would better suit the curvy nature of R33s

Hope you don't mind Vu, but i think your R33 converts non-believers haha

post-55803-1251177812_thumb.jpg

Same goes with Silvia S15's

post-55803-1251176638_thumb.jpg

Danny

Edited by squareznboxez
  • 2 weeks later...
+ another one for P1s....

They rock. Simple and clean shape. They suit the R33 as a 90's era car by respecting it. Too be honest I'm kind of opposed to the whole 'mod movement where guards are rolled/flared etc.....it's brutalising the intended design of the car. In 20 years time the original car as an 'era design' will look x10 better than the highly cosmetically modded stuff of today. They will be like faded tatts or the embarresing haircuts you had years ago.

What size are those P1's BTW? 17"

Edited by Battery_backup
They rock. Simple and clean shape. They suit the R33 as a 90's era car by respecting it. Too be honest I'm kind of opposed to the whole 'mod movement where guards are rolled/flared etc.....it's brutalising the intended design of the car. In 20 years time the original car as an 'era design' will look x10 better than the highly cosmetically modded stuff of today. They will be like faded tatts or the embarresing haircuts you had years ago.

What size are those P1's BTW? 17"

Yeah... the best performance size good old 17 inch =D

Width and offset?

forgot... ill check tomrorw since im taking off my rims to do my rotors and brake pads...

how about advans on a r33? look good dont you think?

IMG_90361.jpg

P1's do look great on 33's.

Not a huge fan of any 3 spoke wheel, but those look alright I'm guessing because they're black.

I'm not either. They look a bit weak and insubstantial. I wonder if they are more prone to buckling etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
×
×
  • Create New...