Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's tempting and doable in the space of half an hour (Tein SS ftw), but I'd have to run some negative camber and roll the guards to make it work (not factory paint so I'm worried it'll crack/crease). I live around bumpy roads so the ride would be f'n terrible too. At the moment they sit flush with the guards pretty nicely (cept I may lower it 10mm more in the rear) so I'll probably leave for now.

Yer I gotta remove the stickers lol, I don't mind them personally but everyone has told me to take them off. I'm just enjoying them while they are on because once off I can't put them back on again :blush:

It's funny how small 18's look these days...

It's tempting and doable in the space of half an hour (Tein SS ftw), but I'd have to run some negative camber and roll the guards to make it work (not factory paint so I'm worried it'll crack/crease). I live around bumpy roads so the ride would be f'n terrible too. At the moment they sit flush with the guards pretty nicely (cept I may lower it 10mm more in the rear) so I'll probably leave for now.

Yer I gotta remove the stickers lol, I don't mind them personally but everyone has told me to take them off. I'm just enjoying them while they are on because once off I can't put them back on again :blush:

It's funny how small 18's look these days...

they look small because of the rim design been deep dish and spokes looks smaller if u had spokes right to the edge of the rim would look much larger, plus lower it they will look bigger

rolling guards wont cause u any issues with the paint, you wont need a flare i rkn an inch all round will have you baller and be tough as fk maybe slight rear camber nothing excessive wil be needed

DOOOO ITTTT!

Man, whether or not 18s are small by today's standards, I'd still rather some good looking 17s or 18s with dish, width and offset than some Chromed out trash with cash 22s.

Looks good Birds, got any photos of the rear? I'm looking at some 9 inch wide rears with a +25 offset, but fear it may be a bit weak for what i like. May have to go 10.5 inch wide with +20 :D

BTW if anyone has any pics of an R33 with such a width and offset, 17 or 18 inch is fine, though 17 is preferable, I would greatly appreciate if you could post.

cheers!

Has anyone ever put a set of 17' Watanabes or Minilites on an R33?

Yes, yes, I'm stuck in the past, but I reckon with the right stance it could look pure track porn good.

Cheers for compliments. I totally guessed it with these wheels...offset, tyre size and all that. To be honest I had no idea if it would work but I reckon I got lucky. I'll take a rear pic for you Jay...they aren't ns.com spec at the back but they sit flush with the guards which is the look I prefer. Plus I don't wanna be wearing out the inners of my tyres too quickly :D Can always add spacers later on if I want it to sit wider.

Yer that's what I explained to my friends, it's the style of the rim with dish and small spokes that make them look like 17. If you want big looking wheels you go for Commodore spec chromies, Bob Jane stylez lol. I reckon 18 is just about the perfect size for the R33, i.e. if you're going for that performance/racing look - 19/20 is more a showcar size.

Man, whether or not 18s are small by today's standards, I'd still rather some good looking 17s or 18s with dish, width and offset than some Chromed out trash with cash 22s.

Looks good Birds, got any photos of the rear? I'm looking at some 9 inch wide rears with a +25 offset, but fear it may be a bit weak for what i like. May have to go 10.5 inch wide with +20 :blink:

BTW if anyone has any pics of an R33 with such a width and offset, 17 or 18 inch is fine, though 17 is preferable, I would greatly appreciate if you could post.

cheers!

look my car up its 18x10 +20 good luck with 10.5 it'll need a flare for sure.

yeh birds 18s ur spot on they look fine, plus that rim has quite chunky spokes so doesnt help but if u reduce ur fender gap the rim will look larger but yeh dont worry ur tyres wont chew out to quick.

either way its tidy now but if u wana make it baller slammmmmmmm it :)

look my car up its 18x10 +20 good luck with 10.5 it'll need a flare for sure.

yeh birds 18s ur spot on they look fine, plus that rim has quite chunky spokes so doesnt help but if u reduce ur fender gap the rim will look larger but yeh dont worry ur tyres wont chew out to quick.

either way its tidy now but if u wana make it baller slammmmmmmm it :blink:

Yeah was expecting a flare to be necessary, ive seen rolled 18x10 +20/+18 and thats a bees dick to scrubtown, maybe should buy a set of 9 inch with +25 or so then buy two ridiculous rears to attempt when i finally nut up!

Yours looks pretty flush alex, is it rolled or mild flare?

  • 3 weeks later...
jaysiin helps if u put rim sizes/widths as opposed to tyre specs from the pic the rear looks fair sunken but could be the photo

when u mentioned it, it does look sunken in the photo. but its not really that bad. i just had a look just then, if the rear sat out more, ill need the guards rolled. its sits kinda flush.

i have attached some pics.

post-57210-1270988915_thumb.jpg

post-57210-1270989098_thumb.jpg

post-57210-1270989139_thumb.jpg

stern 5 spoke 17s FTW haha! o

they look pretty cool on my car, dished on the back w/255s so looks pretty tough, not in the same league as other rims though

cheap and cheerful :happy:

Considering how old these Sterns are, I think they still look pretty damn good on the R33.

post-25026-1271113384_thumb.jpg

post-25026-1271113436_thumb.jpg

Considering how old these Sterns are, I think they still look pretty damn good on the R33.

Heres mine.

They are Konig Netz 18x9.

Needs a small spacer on the rear to bring out the wheels a bit, but other then that i think they look alright.

Cheap too.

post-35783-1271119091_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...