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By VancouverR34 · Posted
Lots of troubleshooting for what turned out to be a very simple stuff. Bad vibrations when driving were from a sticking right front caliper. I thought it was coming from there and would have come to that conclusion had I not felt random very small vibration when car was idling. I didn't know if that was normal for doing those vibrations while idling or not as it was my son's daily driver car and he couldn't tell as he probably didn't notice them while driving. I thought that was the same vibration that lead to stronger vibration while driving. The bad vibration turned out to be from a sticky caliper that I fixed. For the small engine vibrations while idling - all I had to do was to advance timing a little bit more and vibrations were gone and engine started working smoothly. Issues solve. Should have reported back earlier but forgot where I posted this and just now did a search and found my last year's post. Never thought that was two unrelated issues. Would have made my troubleshooting much quicker. But in the process I learnt a lot which is a great experience to have. -
Yuh. R32 RB20s do not have an injector resistor pack. That is for RB26s, which use low impedance injectors. And there are 6x resistors in it, because there are 6x injectors. A single resistor can't handle 6x injectors. -
By TurboTapin · Posted
If it has two wires, it's your fuel pump resistor and not an injector resistor pack. I have one laying around I can sell you cheap. -
Yes. Yes. On an R32, for example, the nipple is actually connected onto the compressor housing. Right on the front. There is probably a pad on the front of yours that could have been drilled and tapped, but likely wasn't, because they stopped putting it there, for some reason. If there's a fitting on that elbow, then yes. Can't see it because the photo is tiny and the arrow is in the way. But yes.
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By CanadianGuy · Posted
Well was troubleshooting what sounded like an rpm limit being set on the car just as it was building boost and noticed my wastegate is open at idle. As I was using a prybar to put some pressure on the rod to see if I had any binding doesn’t it slip and end up hitting my fuel injector resistor mounted on the passenger side firewall HARD. Checked all my wires and everything’s good but now the car won’t start 🙃 Upon initial turn of the key it sounds like it’s about to start for a split second before it just cranks. Strong smell of fuel, car has spark. Now I’m assuming my smacking of the resistor messed something up internally and the injectors are dumping a ton of fuel (plugs are wet and even QuickStart/ether won’t do anything after cranking a few times it’s so flooded) This make sense in other people’s minds before I drop the money on a new resistor? Car went from idling mint to not starting at all after that one slip
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