Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Units In The Old R30


Recommended Posts

As we all probably know by now, those of us who have installed head units,

the r30 is a horrible car to fit a stereo to. The deck does not quite fit all the way in

and once the old one is removed there is a wide open gap that has to be filled with

something so there is no big gaps.

What have you done to overcome this, and has anyone got any different ideas

or a different location for a head unit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using an OLD SCHOOL retro look POST mount radio cassette in a poverty pack centre panel & a 1/4 DIN equalizer in the ashtray and an FM modulated 10 stacker in the boot.

Looks a bit original and nobody is gunna want to steal my radio cassette eh?

The hole to the left is going to have a plastic pocket from an N12 pulsar or a gauge or 2.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm leaving mine as is and fitting the new head unit in the glovebox

Edited by R34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is a neat setup, does give the thieves a good look at it though

Here is my setup. It is offset to the right. Easier to reach the controls.

2019157250041313032isLALx_th.jpg

I also have redone the boot with a shallow mount sub on one side and the amp on the back of the seat.

2322450670041313032ihkepc_th.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im not a fan of the glovebox job.

I think its good for classics that are worth 50k plus or for people that dont like using their stereos heaps.

Its not practical enough, just to turn the volume up or down or select another track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my setup. It is offset to the right. Easier to reach the controls.

2019157250041313032isLALx_th.jpg

I also have redone the boot with a shallow mount sub on one side and the amp on the back of the seat.

2322450670041313032ihkepc_th.jpg

I thought of offsetting it, i should of gone with it.

whats that sub like?

I need to get me one of them steering wheels, or perhaps a whole black dash!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so you drive around with the glove box open? or you get one of them

thumb controller thingys?

Had a similar setup once before and the unit came with a little hand held unit that controlled enough functions.

Glovebox could stay closed. I don't fiddle with the radio anyway usually...just have it on a station and leave it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i removed my antenna from the roof when i painted the car, so i got no radio.

i keep wanting to go buy an electric in car one but i dont really like the radio anyway.

i just got a new deck with a usb input so it works like a giant ipod,

so i need to see the face so i can read the folder names.

hence the glovebox is not a good spot for my needs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ravenoak... Your's looks great... Is it just me or is your clock and climate settings different???

My car already had a deck installed when i got it and sits in the middle like Andrew's.. but mine doesnt sit in flush :P

I have seen some photos somewhere before where someone has offset the cd deck and had an aftermarket EQ to the right, thats always an idea for you Nick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the decks dont fit flush coz there is no depth in the cavity for a standard size deck!

Ive fitted mine already in the center. i installed a volt guage and battery light to the left of it.

Made up an MDF panel to cover all the gaps.

Ill take a photo and post it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought of offsetting it, i should of gone with it.

whats that sub like?

I need to get me one of them steering wheels, or perhaps a whole black dash!

The sub is great. It is a special design from Clarion to fit in shallow depths. Plenty of punch but not doof doof. Clean, crisp and tight bass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ravenoak... Your's looks great... Is it just me or is your clock and climate settings different???

My car already had a deck installed when i got it and sits in the middle like Andrew's.. but mine doesnt sit in flush :D

I have seen some photos somewhere before where someone has offset the cd deck and had an aftermarket EQ to the right, thats always an idea for you Nick.

The clock and climate controls are black as opposed to the silver finish. I think this was the case on some of the RS's. My old Paul Newman had the silver finish.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

07052009095.jpg

light is alternator light, forgot to wire it into the dash when changing the wiring loom.

Used MDF to make the panel around the deck, gonna laminate it matt black.

Edited by skybt1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

07052009095.jpg

light is alternator light, forgot to wire it into the dash when changing the wiring loom.

Used MDF to make the panel around the deck, gonna laminate it matt black.

That is where I'm going. Thanks Nick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...