Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have researched this subject a little on SAU forum (the only one I use) but would still like some advice please.

By the way thanks to all who helped me with advice on my clutch....I went to Hyperdrive and got an Exedy HD organic and love it!!!!

I now want to increase power a little.

At the mo my R33 S2 has approx 170rwkw

Intercooler, pod with cold air intake and box, big fuel pump, manual boost up to 10-11lb, 3" cat back.

The next thing will be front/dump pipe........After reading here I will probably go with Kermit for a 3" bell mouth .......good idea????

Anyway, my question really is what to do next...and I mean soon.

I got blown off by one of those G6E turbos ...LOL

I am thinking of hi flowing standard turbo and getting some ECU upgrade. But this is where it gets a bit fuzzy.

I want to keep it as simple as poss.

Therefore the hi flow route.

I want approx 220-230rwkw.

I want 1 bar boost.

I don't want to have to do any more mods than I already have (except front pipe)

I don't want to spend $1000+ on PFC and $500 on every tune.

I would like to keep my budget down to approx $500-$1000 for complete ECU/ECU upgrade and tune.

I see my options as a Mines ECU, piggy back setup (too many to choose), R32 ECU chipped.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268589-i-want-more-power/
Share on other sites

Don't have much to offer except re: ECU..

You can actually pick up brand new PowerFC's from the states for a hell of a lot less than people in Aus try to sell theirs for second hand.. Not sure if they're still being produced, but there was a slow 'on-demand' supply of them late last year.

AUD to the USD is picking up slightly and if it gets better it'd be worth looking in to if you'd consider spending a little more.. I got one for about $800AUD delivered..

hE DUDE i got an r34 4 dr with a R33 S2 highflow,

Basicly same mods as you but have Full zaust (decat)

Apexi SAFC and re tune,

Got around 300 hp at the rear on 10 psi and shit sparks can easy get 350 which plenty for the street!

Get the Front Dump If you got the Money 110% PFC and good sparks / injectors and get a tune,

Even a Cam for bottom end tourqe ?

Good Luck!

High flow turbo costs $2000.

Then u will need bigger injectors and fuel pump. An ECU would be best. Like Apexi Power FC or Wolf 3D.

A R33 can't have its ecu remaped like a R32. So a SAFC or piggy back ecu would be cheaper, but not worth it.

Check forced induction section to see what mods people have for what power.

BTW, a G6E has a 4L turbo engine making ~300kw. A stock R33 makes ~187kw. My R32 with RB25DET made 220rwkw on a stock turbo, bigger fuel pump and with a WOLF 3D ecu.

Oh ans search in the right section, don't just slap any random question in the WA section. This topic is covered every week.

G6E / xr6T makes 270kw

Barra 4.0L DOHC DI-VCT TURBO I6

(270 kW 533 nm)

* XR6 Turbo

* G6E Turbo

If you do your front/dump & cat next, then get an SAFC2/neo and a tune, you should be at around 200rwkw. That's around 275kw at the flywheel.

Given the R33 GTS-T is around 350-400kg lighter then a Ford G6E, you should be able to beat one, no?

(that's assuming the G6E is stock...)

Edited by dnbosiris

Oh yeh, sorry. The F6 is 310kw. The old F6 is 270kw. The old XR6T is 240kw, new one is 270kw.

I reckon thats awesome.

So a G6E turbo = 270kw for 1800kg. similar to R33 + mods = 220kw for 1400kg. 220rwhp

Then it depends on traction etc. or if its a roll on, torque etc.

1) why?

2) if the answer is to beat x time or x car that does x time then the power is just a means to an end and it's not the only one. whatever power is needed to win is all that matters. However much power that happens to be is not the point.

Edited by rev210
High flow turbo costs $2000.

Then u will need bigger injectors and fuel pump. An ECU would be best. Like Apexi Power FC or Wolf 3D.

A R33 can't have its ecu remaped like a R32. So a SAFC or piggy back ecu would be cheaper, but not worth it.

Check forced induction section to see what mods people have for what power.

BTW, a G6E has a 4L turbo engine making ~300kw. A stock R33 makes ~187kw. My R32 with RB25DET made 220rwkw on a stock turbo, bigger fuel pump and with a WOLF 3D ecu.

Oh ans search in the right section, don't just slap any random question in the WA section. This topic is covered every week.

any idea of who does a hiflow service in Perth ? They replace with steel wheels when doing this right?

Is it really that expensive?? At $2000 couldnt you buy something heaps better?

any idea of who does a hiflow service in Perth ? They replace with steel wheels when doing this right?

Is it really that expensive?? At $2000 couldnt you buy something heaps better?

thanks for all the replies

do hiflows cost $2000??

OK so I def will go Garrett / HKS turbo

still unsure about which ECU

will check out US suppliers now for POWER FC

also found a bit about VI-PEC ecu

$2000 but supposed to be the best performer and easiest to tune

given up on Mines etc and piggy backs

what about R32 ECU with a chip???......anyone had experience

Come on I want to beat that crappy falcon

P.S I am calling Kermit tomorrow re front/dump and cat

yOU CAN Find highflow cheaper these days

I was lucky to get a new one of my mate for $500

all i did is a Bosh500p in tank fuel pump

SAFC APEXI

better sparks + the mods mention up top

New turbo

Means - New Injectors / mainfold / mounts ect could work out for $$ but better in the long run!

turbo & components - recommend gt3076r 0.82 housing (get from mtq)

injectors - sard 850cc injectors (get from slide)

ecu - recommend vipec (get from auto worx)

fuel pump - recommend bosch 044 (get from a forum sponsor)

z32 afm - get from slide

thats probably going to cost around 6-7k installed. recommend compression test & leak down test to check engine health.

ViPec? I wouldn't go there. Most people get PFC's andother full aftermarket ECU's 1000+

Semi ones like piggy backs etc. Common are Nistune on R32 ecu's (not for 33) or E-manage or SAFC II. 500+

Yeah, u can get HKS or Garret turbo kits's for 3000$. Do it

Mines ecu's don't come tunable, I don't think. Or next to no-one in perth tunes them. You have limits on ECU's etc u have coz there might be tuners with little to no experience with a certain one.

MTQ, Turbotec and P3rf0m4anz turbo's or whater ever do it in Perth.

Or order a Highflo from GCG turbo's. One of the best hiflo companies in AUS.

But yeah, there are also other ways to beat a car in a race. Better tyres, better brakes, smaller wheels/tyres (diameter) = quick acceleration, lower diff ratios, more weight over rear wheels for better traction of the line, but if rolling start race, then less weight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...