Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR's???

SIR33

By SIR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Depends how good you are at driving, and if straight line 1/4 mile speed quick, if you have the balls to drop the clutch at 7000rpm.....

But they are pretty damn quick if its in good condition, but there seems to be more and more used and abused 32 GTR's going around, that are to put it politely, in shit condition and let down the GTR name.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26862-r32-gtrs/#findComment-566677
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

compression and leakdown test will indicate if its in need of an engine rebuild (or at least replacement of piston rings, which still means ripping the engine apart)

Keep in mind the cars are upto 15 years old... They are excellent cars, and you pay more for the ones in decent condition, but theyre not some sort of "supercar", and after 15 years of life, they are starting to show their age.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26862-r32-gtrs/#findComment-566688
Share on other sites
r32impul Collaborator

r32impul

Posted
Posted

I would think that a recentable to very good condition R32GTR will cost around $30-$40k, I have seen many shit R32GTR around 25k and they are shit, 98-92 early model, engine, electrical, problem and it will cost u around $6-7k to replace the engine anyway. so why don't just buy a $30k good condition GTR? If u lucky enough, maybe u can find a 93-94 later model

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26862-r32-gtrs/#findComment-570463
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...