Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed a 3inch cat back the other weekend. After the install i did an ecu reset but the car still runs real sluggish.

It felt a lot more responsive with the old restrictive exhaust on.

Can someone please give me some help?

Seems clear? :)

Bit wierd, if anything it should be making a tad more boost and run better.

Edited by gotRICE?

i just installed a 3" dump pipe and cat to go with the rest of my 3" exhaust using the standard ecu. car feels a tonne smoother throughout the whole rev range and air filter is heaps noisier below 3000rpm because of the increased flow and the turbo being able to spool up sooner. you should definitely not be feeling sluggish. not sure about diagnostic though.

Take your car for a quick test drive and look at the factory boost meter.

it should reach full boost at about 3000rpm.

it may sound silly, but check your exhaust manifold, you may have a leak.

Should come on bit sooner than that.. mine makes 10psi by 2700.

Although with full exhaust.. not just cat back.

mine doesn't make full boost, 10psi until 5,000 RPM. Is there a problem? Could 3.5" be causing back flow problems in my case?

Afaik, not a problem unless the actuator has been modded...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ost-t42895.html

  • 2 months later...

Strange... Turbo car likes a freeflowing exhaust after the turbo.... engine gets its backpressure from the turbo.... Big exhaust in a N/A car and you don't have enough backpressure + exhaust speeds are too low and it'll work against you. Correct? (very simplified obviously)

I bought my GTS-T with a 3.5" catback on it, got it switched to a stocky for EPA test and it felt so restricted.... bout the same low down, but high range and it struggled.

Strange... Turbo car likes a freeflowing exhaust after the turbo.... engine gets its backpressure from the turbo.... Big exhaust in a N/A car and you don't have enough backpressure + exhaust speeds are too low and it'll work against you. Correct? (very simplified obviously)

Not correct.

Most people with N/A's put exhausts on and don't tune.

I had a twin 2.25" exhaust on a V8 years ago - loved it

I installed a 3inch cat back the other weekend. After the install i did an ecu reset but the car still runs real sluggish.

It felt a lot more responsive with the old restrictive exhaust on.

Can someone please give me some help?

i would check the dump pipe. when removing or installing the new exhaust you may have twisted the dump pipe a bit (possibly when trying to undo the bolts on the cat) and it may be causing the wastegate flap to foul slightly and not close properly.

mine doesn't make full boost, 10psi until 5,000 RPM. Is there a problem? Could 3.5" be causing back flow problems in my case?

definately a problem. i had a 3.5" exhaust with stock ecu and was making 12psi by under 3000rpm. may be an issue with your boost controller (i also had an issue with a boost controller causing boost to come on very late. it wasn't releasing the pressure between the controller and the wastegate when you lifted off so when you changed gears the wastegate would still be open, and on a few occasions it was open so far at 5000rpm i was only just starting to make boost)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...