Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have mazda service logs for my rx7 that show in it's first 4-5 years of ownership it did something like 5-6,000km. Plenty of japanese people buy nice cars purely to drive on sundays.

Here's a real-world example (and I live in the sticks, so the cities would be even worse):

* I see several awesome vehicles every week (r33/34 GTRS, rx7s, Ferrari, etc). But I only usually see these particular cars on sundays.

* The traffic sucks, a lot of the time, especially weekdays. I pretty much use my rx7 as a daily driver - and it's not fun to drive in traffic (a caged animal). Most people have kei cars or something boring (I, for instance, use my r33 sedan (auto) when I know traffic will be really bad). With a few exceptions, the only 'performance' cars I see regularly on the road (ie: commuting every day) are mx5s, hi-po keis, and VIP cars (which are almost all auto anyway).

* In the winter - (4 months of the year) you see very, very little in the way of performance cars - 3 main reasons: (1) high snow and low cars don't mix, (2) a lot of hp and a lot of snow = unintentional 'drifting', (3) snow tires are frickin' expensive when you have 9" wide rears (believe me, I've priced them). About the only nice cars you see everyday are evos and wrxs (and still fewer than usual).

* Most people don't commute very far to work. Those who do, use the trains - which, unlike australian train networks, are on time 99% of the time. In a public service job (like mine), you are nearly always placed as close as possible to your workplace - so even if you commute, it generally isn't very far.

in short: many people only drive their nice cars on sundays. Most people don't drive their nice cars at all in the winter.

I think these enviromental/social circumstances are quite different to australians and their way of thinking - which is why we can't really comprehend the low kms we see on so many import cars.

Not to say that odometer winding does not happen - it definitely does.

DaiOni, thanks for that. My car had 85000km on it when I got it, and based on its condition I'm 99% sure that it hasn't been wound back. Even if it has, it's got 100k km on it now and still in much better condition than many other cars with 100k on it.

Yeah... mine is a similar story. My car had 80k on it when I imported it. The steering wheel was quite worn on the right side but not the left, and the gear knob was worn. But the rest of the car checked out just like it had 80k - super quiet motor, no seat or carpet wear, etc. Most of the brake rotors, from what I can gather, tend to wear due to stop/start driving and the nature of the standard pads.

In any case, I was under the impression that it really wasn't worth the time to knock the clock as any change would not be all that significant - I understand that a car won't fetch much more at auction since it is mainly the age of the car and overall condition which determine selling price. Can anyone confirm this?

Also, who recovers steering wheels and what is the cost - I know nothing of this kinda stuff and happy with the standard wheel which I'd like to keep. I'd just like it re-covered.

BuzLightyear, there is a psychological "100 000km" barrier which is sure to cause late model cars in the auction yards to go for a few hundred thousand yen less than those with less than 100k. This applies less to earlier model cars, so when you get down to a 15 year old GTR it might only translate to a few hundred bucks.

You can get your wheel re-leathered at a few shops, usually the ones that do car interiors. I priced one a few years ago and I think they quoted me around $150? The price has probably gone up since then.

Make sure you get really good quality leather though, I've heard stories of people re-covering their wheel and the leather never lasting as long as the factory stuff (which is actually very good quality).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
×
×
  • Create New...