Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've decided to replace all the bolt on bits first, 3" mandrel bent exhaust from the turbo back + high flow cat, then intercooler and turbo (bleed valve). Bigger fuel pump and pressure regulator to increase potential of stock injectors.

Next stage would be a Wolf3Dv4, EBC and bigger injectors when it comes time to run higher boost.

Still undecided about the turbo, but I'm leaning towards a GT25 or HKS2530 at the moment, especially after reading bbenny's posts. Would a stock turbo modified for high flow be cheaper and just as suitable?

Also, at what point would I expect to replace the AFM, and what would you guys suggest for a replacement?

Thanks for all your input so far guys, feeling more confident that I'm headed in the right direction.

Also, I haven't really considered an rb26 upgrade, I'd simply save a little extra and buy a GTR ;-)

  • 5 months later...

Ok the 2530 turbo. Is it an intrenal wastegate or external setp. I am thinking of upgrading my turbo and at first I was looking to get a Trust TD06. I know that this needs an external wastegate so it could be quite costly and probably(?) a bit laggy. Compared to the TD06, I think that the 2530 sounds like a steal at the prices mentioned in this thread. Which turbo would you guys recomend(it does not have to be one of these two either I am open to suggestion). I am after a fast street car (its an RB20 skyline wrapped in a silvia body hehe) with aprox 250 rwk.

Thanks

Hi Strange, this is what we do for 400 bhp (230/240 rwkw)...........

* Power FC with Boost Control Kit & Commander

* Split dump with mandrel 3.5" exhaust & hi flow cat

* GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25 DET turbo

* Tomei 256/260 Poncams

* Z32 AFM

* Standard GTR or Z32TT in tank fuel pump

* Pipercross panel filter in the standard airbox

* But upgrade the ambient air feed

* Standard R33/34 GTR intercooler

* 63 mm pipework from the turbo to the intercooler

* 75 mm pipework from the intercooler to the throttle body

* OS Giken twin plate clutch

* Electric fan (remove the standard fan)

More importantly, what we don't do...

^ Standard internals are fine

^ Standard compression ratio is fine ie; don't need a thick head gasket

^ Standard injectors are OK for this power level, for a bit of security an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (we use Nismo) and stretch the standard injectors 10% which is my limit

^ Standard inlet manifold is fine

^ Standard coils are fine

^ Standard exhaust manifold is fine

^ Don't need an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley, the Tomei Poncams are timed perfectly out of the box

For 250 rwkw we find the standard injectors won't stretch, so we use 550 cc and then we don't need the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The GTR/Z32 pump is at its limit at 250 rwkw on some cars, so you may find an upgrade there is necessary, we go straight to Bosch 044 in those cases.

Hope that helps

We made 247rwkw with a standard engine from an rb20.

The mods it had were:

.64 T04e

Turbo smart 45mm External Gate

Apexi GTR front mount

fuel Tronics Chip

Bosch Fuel Pump

3.5inch exhaust

Adjustable fuel pressure reg

and a Turbo smart boost controller. It made this power on 21psi. It had full boost at round 5k and rev'd out to 8k Sometimes even more. The car also ran a 11.8 @ 116mph.

The new owner of this car now re-sides in Newcastle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are genuinely considering trying to get this engineered, I would strongly advise finding the engineer that is happy to sign that off first before you put the hole in your car.  I've seen cars get defected for this and not be able to be put back on the road as no engineer they spoke to was happy to sign if off.  
    • Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work. Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ).  Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes. Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah.  Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?
    • My advice is if you need a big build done do it in Japan. The yen rate is so favorable and there are shops that can be genuinely trusted and not micromanaged/carefully monitored every step of the way. Garage Yoshida is obviously my preferred option but they're so busy these days and all interaction with new customers has to be mediated through BBL/Toprank now. 
    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
×
×
  • Create New...