Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Got a new turbo bolted on, a Garrett GT30R-IWBB hybrid with ported Nissan front/rear housings

Nissan 45V4 Front ported / modified Intake housing

Image075.jpg

Nissan 6-bolt Rear ported / modified Exhaust housing

Image076.jpg

Modified Water and braided Oil lines, Gates oil return pipe

Image078.jpg

Garrett ball bearing core, internal wastegate, GT3071R

Garrett plate # IMM120880 700177-3

Compressor

Wheel Dia Trim A/R

Ind-53.1mm Exd-71.0mm 56 0.50

Turbine

Wheel Dia Trim A/R

56.5mm 84 0.64

Modified by ATS Adelaide Turbo Services - $2500 kit price

post-18854-1241929036_thumb.jpg

post-18854-1241929087_thumb.jpg

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_700382_3.htm

Everything is on after a little drama; split oil return pipe on rundown test, fixed.

Using 3.5L of Penrite 15-50w, 1L of Fuch 10-40w, and added 600ml with oil additives, such as Wynns Supreme Oil Charge & Nulon Performance Engine Treatment

in 11 days the oil + fuel filters will be changed and oil will be 5L of Martini Racing Sint 60R/T 10-60w

In that time the RB25det is running a tune to suit the previous Highflow turbo, a Slide Nissan hybrid with journal bearings

for the next 11 days I intent to baby it mostly, but can adjust the Apexi SAFC-II and SITC piggybacks on the fly. As it is she's running rich atm.

Any preferences in the way to "Run-In" a new garrett ball bearing turbo?

Should the radiator fluid be changed again in 11 days before the dyno tune?

Any thoughts on ramping on the turbo, ie I havent gone past 7psi yet, mainly going to 2psi, hold then back off then 4psi, hold then backoff then 6psi, ramping it as such.

Going to do a little run tonight in the Hills, want to ramp it thru to 14psi for 100kms or so, build up the heat and get some wear into the turbo / oil.

Wont be holding down the throttle or giving it all until after the dyno tune on 21st May.

Any thoughts on driving until then, to run-in a ball bearing turbo?

cheers. Hopefully the tune reaps 240rwkw. we'll see.

:)

Tangles

Engine:

Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter, blended oil

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

MV Automatic shift kit & auto service kit

Koyo Radiator upgrade

Splitfire coil packs

NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit & Fujimoto sump plug drain valve

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nismo Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system (turbo to cat)

3inch high-flow metal race cat

3inch cat-back exhaust system with Kakimoto Gtr racing free flow muffler

Cold Air Radiator air guide (feeds radiator / pod / intercooler)

Cold Air Induction aluminium box w/ lid setup, foam internals, using standard snorkel air feed

Trust 600x400mm FMIC bar & plate, with custom return air feed pipe kit

Apexi power intake pod filter

Apexi electronic boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

Greddy Profec-B spec-ii dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1bar and 1.1bar

HKS heavy duty turbo actuator

Garrett GT3071R- 700177-3 Internal Wastegate Ball Bearing Turbocharger + Nissan 45V4/2UI housings

Toshi ecu remap, tuned by Boostwerx

Ported headwork including new valve seals, valve seats and valve guides

EPP Clear camgear timing cover

Cometic head gasket 87mm x1.2mm

Cometic gasket kit including rocker cover, intake manifold, intake collector & exhaust gaskets

ARP head stud kit

Tomei 256 intake / 256 exhaust poncam gear set

Tomei 8.8mm high lift springs

Tomei oil gallery restrictor

Suspension:

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Dayz adjustable engine swaybar, custom boot swaybar

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

BJR Graphite 17inch rims with Marshal Mactrac TX tyres, 235/45/17

Brakes:

Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

DBA slotted front brake discs

Benidx Advance front and Heavy Duty rear brake pads

Audio:

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp mounted to enclosure for Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Razin volt stabiliser kit

Car alarm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269306-running-in-a-turbo-results-gt3076/
Share on other sites

Well that compressor and turbine map mean zip now that the cartridge is in not std housings - for the wheels .

I don't know why they didn't just offer you a real GT3071R IW (700177-5023 cartridge) and tell you to buy/make a dump pipe .

You are going to have to source non std oil and water plumbing anyway so what they sold you isn't going to be that much easier to get up and running .

A .

Late edit , count your compressor blades because GT3071Rs all use the same compressor wheel and it isn't 7/14 bladed .

Have a look for the cartridge number on the turbos ID tag , it should say 700177-xx . The "-xx" numbers will tell the story .

Edited by discopotato03

Ive bolted it on, as it comes with a full kit. Everything adapted ready to go.

Used thick red Gates rubber joiner for the oil return, everything else is Speedflow fittings

Took off and sold my old Slide turbo for $100 less than original cost 3yrs ago, and bolted this one up

took me a while, a bit of help on one day when I was pretty sore, but all in all a project thats finished bar the tune

its a ATS GT30R highflow, meant to be the better than the GCG bbiw highflow

im sure that mod list doesnt have squat to do with "running in" a turbo.. hahah.

And as far as im aware, bolt it on, and go for gold. From what iv read on here theres no such thing as running in a turbo. Just do it.

yah its blended but only in for 9 more days. wont see anymore than 400kms.

then oil will be 5L of Martini Racing Sint 60R/T 10-60w

as is, she's a real beaut !! GT30/T04S ATS RB25 hiflow + cams/head-work. sounds fricken amazing ;)

:P

I guess Ive figured its all good. Everything is running well, and screams so so fast thru the rpm-range.

awaiting a cheapo racing seat, fit up the rear swaybar, fix heatercore & 3xguages & regas a/c.

thats it

all up ~ $43,000 after 4yrs

:happy:

Long post for a simple question

Turbos - do not need running in, if correctly assembled.

Bolt in, Boost up, simple

Completely agree. Journal bearing or BB, shouldn't matter. If something were touching to get "worn in correctly" it's going to lunch itself (is that correct aussie slang? :happy: ) anyways.

Running-in in general terms it is not required but recommended only sleeve bearing turbos. We had a brand new TD07 on a RB25det, by tuning straight after installation you notice the boost curve kicks in more and more advanced as you flooring it on the 4th gear. car picked up lot more mid rang few weeks later with boost advanced by almost 500RPM. I'm pretty sure lot of tuners have seen the same thing and will tell you the same story.

Its got nothing to do with in build quality, its not a requirement, but a recommendation to sleeve bearing turbo owners to see the true result of their setup.

Back on the turbo topic. Is this a R33's rear housing? it looks like a AVO's .63 rear housing. If that is the case this turbo would have no isses making upto 300rwkws.

Edited by hypergear
you wont make 300rwkw with that turbo.

Rated for 270kws

I'll be happy to have 230kw without extra fueling, or 250kw with the extra injector intake manifold setup

Back on the turbo topic. Is this a R33's rear housing? it looks like a AVO's .63 rear housing. If that is the case this turbo would have no isses making upto 300rwkws.

I think you're correct with the AVO housing.... Bill @ ATS did say it wasnt a stock rear housing. looks slightly thicker, etc

edit: yep its a GT30 / T04S 60T cartridge, avo .73 rear housing, ported nissan 45v4 front housing

http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

well Ive got to say, this turbo is much more responsive than the slide turbo.

the slide wasnt going to see 230kw on my engine, and was too small when compared to the poncams and the flow potential.

ie 4th gear 4000rpm 180kmph and the turbo was out of puff but yet the cams were just coming on-song

this turbo absolutely fricken ROX !!!! Id go out there and say its worth its coin. the slide turbo was good for under a grand, but this one being BB and .73 ar rear is much much better

anyone after a bolt on RB20 or RB25 turbo I can recommend this one

  • 2 weeks later...
well Ive got to say, this turbo is much more responsive than the slide turbo.

the slide wasnt going to see 230kw on my engine, and was too small when compared to the poncams and the flow potential.

ie 4th gear 4000rpm 180kmph and the turbo was out of puff but yet the cams were just coming on-song

this turbo absolutely fricken ROX !!!! Id go out there and say its worth its coin. the slide turbo was good for under a grand, but this one being BB and .73 ar rear is much much better

anyone after a bolt on RB20 or RB25 turbo I can recommend this one

would like to see a manifold pressure graph,

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
×
×
  • Create New...