Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I plugged in a cigarette lighter powered air compressor, and it stopped almost as quick as it started. Now the cigarette lighter doesn't work, I assume it's a blown fuse.

But looking at the fuses located under the bonnet, near the battery all were okay, so I assume there must be a fuse for the cig. lighter inside the dash somewhere?

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269334-cigarette-lighter-fuse/
Share on other sites

check to the right of your peddles

this pic is of the G35 (left hand drive) so filp it around and you have ours. (i think)

Thanks V35 Paul, it was where you said. After you pull the flap off, the fuse for the cigarette lighter is just to the left of the impliment provided to pull the fuses out, the 15 amp one.

Had to get some help from my a Japanese teacher at school to save me pulling them all out to check which one had blown.

All working now.

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to bring this thread up again but I am having trouble finding the lighter fuse on my car - a 2001 250GT sedan.

I can't seem to find the fuses as shown in the above diagram and while I found some fuses in the battery cavity, none seem to be for the lighter.

Can anyone advise where I should be looking for the cigarette lighter fuse on the 250GT sedan?

Hmm still don't seem to be able to find it.. Unless I should be pulling apart under the dash.. Found the computer cable and the home it lives but can't find fuses?

*Looking at Chris Rogers* Chris you are around these everyday.. Are you able to help??

Hmm still don't seem to be able to find it.. Unless I should be pulling apart under the dash.. Found the computer cable and the home it lives but can't find fuses?

*Looking at Chris Rogers* Chris you are around these everyday.. Are you able to help??

Most 12v sockets have a type of fuse attached directly to it, so remove the socket and have a look at the bottom of it, you should see it, basically looks like a thin metal wire that will have a break in it. Its so simple to fix, had a mate that tried to use a compressor and fried his sockets, the workshop quoted him $800 as they apparently had to take the whole dash out blah blah etc. I called BULLSHIT on it, told my mate what to do, so he ended up replacing the sockets himself for a few dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...