Jump to content
SAU Community

oil catch cans

bbenny

By bbenny,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
Posted

Im just about to install my catch can (on an RB20DET), but just wanted to be sure i am fitting it correctly, ensuring no damage to anything else.

i have done some research on the forum so dont tell me to do a search please.

Basically i want to know if it is ok to block the intake line (plug before the turbo) and the valve in the plenum (PCV) then run a line from each rocker cover to the catch can.

is this correct?

The can only has two fittings for hoses. will i have to make another to fit a small filter, or some sort of breather/venting hole?

One other thing - is it true that doing this will cause dangerous vapours to damage my head?

i dont want any blowby oil or vapour running back into the intake system, as i understand they promote detonation.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

p.s i do understand that any vapours venting to atmo is illegal. but i am not concerned as its probably for track use only.

thanks

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/
Share on other sites
BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
Posted

If your catch can has no venting hole: one hose goes to the rocker cover and the other to the sump. This way needs the PVC valve left open.

My catch can has a filter and clogs up very quickly which causes it to blow off and splatter oil all over the place. A Oil Air seperator is the better option(like you have) IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-567871
Share on other sites
bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

according to the box it came in, im supposed to have one line run from the rocker cover to the can, then the other line from the can to the intake (before turbo) that will stop oil from getting into the intake, but continues to let the vapours flow back into the system.

i want to remove these vapours from comming back in.

how would best acheive this with the system i have?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-567892
Share on other sites
bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well this has no internal filtering system, it is simply an aluminium can, it just stops any liquid from circulating back to the intake. if i drill another hole into the can and fit a breather. would i be able to block both PCV and the intake plug safely?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-568085
Share on other sites
bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha ok, maybe im not explaining myself properly. i understand that it is a straight can, designed to catch the oil from the rocker cover and only send air to the intake. HOWEVER i want to know if it possible to block the PVC and intake plug, and run two lines, one from each rocker to the can. if i do this will i have to insert a breather in the can?

is this safe on the engine?

i know it is illegal to vent those vapours to the atmo on a street car, but this is not of concern.

any advice would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-568673
Share on other sites
Gradenko Mentor

Gradenko

Posted
Posted

bbenny, ditching the PCV is a good way to go. Stops all chance of the motor ingesting oil vapour. Just be sure to vent the catch can in some way or you'll be in all sorts of engine trouble. Way I would do it is run one hose for both cam covers (merged or like the factory setup) to the catch can, then use the free hose connection on the can to run a hose into the nether regions of the engine bay and point it at the ground.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-569788
Share on other sites
bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i have the greddy one. i dunno if its just my car, but i clearly get oil running into the mouth of my turbo. thats one reason why i invested in the can. the greddy one catches that oil in the can and allows only gas to flow to the intake.

other models actually have a filter and claim to remove any oil vapour or harmful gasses (impossible) and only send purified air to the intake... but i think the best way is not to let any of that crappy air, filtered or unfiltered back into the intake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26934-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-570364
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...