Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Headlights

SoFly

By SoFly,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34 Sedan Community Regular

R34 Sedan

Posted
Posted

You should be able to do this your self.

Maguire’s all metal polish works well and they come up like new again.

Just be aware they will need to be done regularly as it removes the protective film, but it's definately worth doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4585917
Share on other sites
Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

on my old Gt-t the the build up was actually on the inside of the headlights, I was the first owner is aus and when I bought it it didn't have that

My guess was it had something to do with when the compliancer took out the factory xenons it ruined the seals and let the haze gradually build up over time.

Was going to open up my headlights using the DIY on here somewhere then clean the inside but I sold the car anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4585930
Share on other sites
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
The only way you'd stop it coming back is to have some sort of protective film re applied professionly.

Don't know if this is possible or not.

why bother.... $20 for the bottle that will last you at least 20 cars life spans and 2 mins of your time every 6 months is fine...... recon that would be cheaper and just as effective....... plus you get the feeling of making something ugly become beautiful again lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4586280
Share on other sites
30three Proficient

30three

Posted
Posted

anyone know if you can get glass covers for the 33/34's instead of the plastic jap specs? mine look clear untill i turn the lights on. i've heard you can spray clear coat on them and it stops them from oxidizing, makes sense but haven't seen it done to confirm it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4586305
Share on other sites
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
You should be able to do this your self.

Maguire's all metal polish works well and they come up like new again.

Just be aware they will need to be done regularly as it removes the protective film, but it's definately worth doing.

Metal polish????? should use plastX instead then lol....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4587939
Share on other sites
Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted

When I polished my headlights I started with some 1200 grit wet and dry abrasive paper, moved onto 2000 grit then finished with Maguire's StratchX. Probably spent a good 45 mins per headlight, but 18 months later they only show a slight yellow tinge :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4588342
Share on other sites
PhilKenSebben Community Regular

PhilKenSebben

Posted
Posted

Couldn't agree more, any fine cut abrasive will do a good job, including toothpaste, autosol metal polish is what I use cos I found some in my shed.

It's quicker to start with 2000 grit wet/dry paper, soaked in water for half an hour, then rubbed over avoiding the surrounding paintwork. When it looks like shite, hit it with the finest cut polish you can and plenty of elbow grease and marvel at the results! I've done mine 3 times in 5 or so years of ownership.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4597438
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
bt23 Enthusiast

bt23

Posted
Posted

http://www.gtglass.com.au/HeadlightRepairs.htm

I booked in with these guys for tomorrow, will let you know how it goes!! $70 a headlight sounds a bit pricey I know, but mines coming from both outside and inside, and I'm getting desperate

(P.S. I have done the sand down + polish technique a couple of times since last year and it keeps coming back (maybe it is due to the fact it lives outside)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4685152
Share on other sites
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted (edited)

$140 is cheap considering the whole front bar has to come off to take the headlights out of the car and also taking the lense off is a major pain in the ass (needs to be over baked or use a heatgun)...but NOT CHEAP at all if he's only gonna sand/machine polish the outside of the lens (which is the most likely scenario). Let us know how it goes .. these guys have franchisees everywhere it seems

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4685584
Share on other sites
bt23 Enthusiast

bt23

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

This was done yesterday and overall I'm pretty pleased with the result. The outside of the headlights are almost perfect (the surface is now smoother than the finish on my car) although the inside wasn't done which mean there are some very feint cracks even more visable now that the outside is crystal clear.

With the headlights on at night there isn't any more cloudy dirty appearance from the plastic so I won't bother getting them opened up anymore.

Photo's attached but I don't have any before shots :sick:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269352-r34-headlights/#findComment-4688922
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By Duncan · Posted

      I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...