Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb C210 Bits : Doors, Trim Peices Ect


Recommended Posts

K ive got a coupe in need of some love and some parts

tailshaft

pair of good doors - no rust, working latches, locks and key. no glass or door cards needed. I know im asking alot but my doors are shit and a good pair will fix a few problems at once

alternatively, a passenger side latch assembly that works

boot lid striker, not the latch, the bit that screws onto the bootlid

headlight surrounds and grill in good nick

manual gear stick boot for centre console

roof light console thing

rear drivers side seatbelt in brown

an uncracked dash? lol

a complete stock engine, flywheel and gearbox (maybe)

more as i pull more apart and find more broken shit

im in brisbane but will pay for post for smaller stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

woah,,,,,

you gonna have a heap of fun trying to get all that!!!

if it was 4 door it may be easier, as ther is one at the dapto pick a part wreckers (near woolongong)

i was up there about 3 or 4 weeks ago, even had hotplates in the boot, all the chrome looked fine too

they are pretty pricey though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

bump. no rush but would like to get this shit as its what im missing..

pair of good doors

engine complete, box n tailshaft ect

how easy is it to get a r30 l24e running or are they a nightmare

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have almost no chance of finding decent c210 coupe doors. You may have to weld new sections into what you have, and finish them with locks etc from a donor car.

Funnily enough, I just picked up a rusted out C210 sedan. Unfortunately its auto, its in Vic, and shipping big stuff like the L24 to QLD is going to be painfully expensive. r30s with L24 engines are pretty common (2 on ebay this week) and don't go for much money, you could probaby find something closer to home. Better yet, you could invest in a rusty 280zx or Nissan Patrol and try to grab a complete L28. Finally buying rings, bearings and a gasket kit and rebuilding the engine you already have isn't a bad idea either.

If you still need any little fiddly bits (locks, boot striker, roof console etc) that wont cost you a fortune in postage, let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im considering ripping the whole back half of interior out for a roll cage. but im gunna have a good think and plan this weekend. might have a heap of spare bits for ya mate. oh and i found a boot striker thingy if you need it still??

how's the car going otherwise? done much yet??

Edited by Silent Shadow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nothing man havent had money / motovation still isnt in shed lol

probably going to rip out interior as well as its pretty much trashed

but yeah. still need the boot striker, wouldnt mind a roof console, a full wiper washer switch, passenger side door latch..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nothing man havent had money / motovation still isnt in shed lol

probably going to rip out interior as well as its pretty much trashed

but yeah. still need the boot striker, wouldnt mind a roof console, a full wiper washer switch, passenger side door latch..

that sucks man. wish i could motivate you a bit more but im out of ideas lol.

i got the striker. you can just have it. unfortunately the other bits you need i took from the car in the first place cause the same bits on my car were F'd. sorry man!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

so im slight;y more motivated, i put a battery in it to test what still works and the lights make shineyness and the wipers move, alough VERY slowly. yay some life from it!

um yeah. i kinda want an engine and shit so i can at least drive it form shed to shed whilst i work on it.

silent shadow: can you post me that stricker and any other little bits ive listed? ill swing you some coin.

to summarise, heres a list of shit i want

SHIT I WANT

all in decent condition

body

Pair of good coupe doors, or passenger latch and a set of locks and key

headlight surrounds and grille

boot lid striker

mechanical

Tailshaft

Complete running engine with manifolds, carby ect. or a stock z engine with the twin carbs

Flywheel, clutch fork, shifter, manual box

interior

working wiper/headlight stalk assembly!!!!!!!!!

centre console and manual shifter boot

roof console

rear drivers seatbelt (brown)

some other stuff that id buy but would rather spend cash on the above ^

okish dashboard

full set of clean seats to suit coupe

a pillar trims in brown

any brown coupe interior bits in decent condition

Edited by racsov500
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...