Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest mad dog

hi everyone.

for sale i have my 1996 genuine m spec s2 r33. i bought this 7 weeks ago from redline motorsport as a 4.5 grade auction vehicle. the car arrived un marked from japan with me being the first registered owner. there is still a month of warranty left on the car. it is truly immaculate with not a mark on it. there are no tears rips cracks or wear on the interior and even smells new. below is a list of the vitals

car: 1996 s2 mspec r33

kilometres: 76,000km

engine: rb 25 det standard all fresh fluids with drift filter and fully synthetic oil, new sparkplugs, greddy s type blow off (plumbed back, no noise)

drivetrain: 5 speed manual standard clutch fresh synthetic oil

interior: factory twin airbags option, factory kenwood speaker upgrade with tweeters and 4 ways on parcel shelf, still original tape deck, nismo gearshifter, factory floormats

unmarked seats carpets and headlining, factory 2 way sunroof.

exterior: m spec body kit, clear nismo side indicators, kakimoto 3 inch cat back exhaust white in colour

wheels/tyres: brand new starcorp 5 spokes in 18inch by 9 inch with 235/35/18 and 265/35/18 kuhmo ecsta tyres

suspension: as it left the factory, not lowered at all

extras: looked for 4 weeks at r33s before finding this one and without a doubt was the cleanest one around by a long shot. paid $16,990 for it which wasnt bad considering

$19,990 was still on the window. i've only done about 500km in the car in which it has been gone over with a fine tooth comb, all fluids being replaced including

coolant with a brand new thermostat. there is still about 3 weeks left on warranty for those thinking i found something wrong with it and am trying to get rid of it.

The reason for the sale, simple. i needed a daily driver couldn't afford to run two cars, but now regret buying a skyline. i love my rotaries but didn't want to use one

as my daily. so for someone to benefit from my mistake come and take a look and grab your self a bargain. oh and i'm keen to sell not desperate and am already

making over $2000 loss in 7 weeks so don't push it.

price: $15,000

swaps: will not swap for anything other than 70's rotary (capella, rx2, 808, rx3, 929, rx4) so if it

ain't one of them please don't ask

photos: due to only having it for 7 weeks, have used photos from redline website which they only just put sold on website so the car is still on their site now.

post-61407-1242036642_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036719_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036747_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036774_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036804_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036833_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036859_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242036984_thumb.jpg

post-61407-1242037015_thumb.jpg

contact: text me on 0432167948 (don't get to answer it much so text better)

or email [email protected]

Guest mad dog

to all those sending pms, i cant reply till i have 10 posts. so unless i go post some random crap which would be lame just send me an email or a text. and to rusky gt your a toss and i hope the car someone sells you is on the verge of throwing a piston through the block

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...