Few Odd Things With My Clutch And Shift

[dyefuker]

hey all, hopeing sumone can give me some advice here, had my r33 gtst for 2 years now

and since i got it its always had a creaky clutch peddle, now iv removed the whole peldle assy inside the car,

greased it all up again and also sprayed some wd40 inside where the shaft for the master cylinder enters the unit,

it was silent! for about 2 weeks lol, from what iv gatherd. the noise is coming from that shaft on the master cylinder,

what is the best way to fix this anoying noise?

and my second question, about 1 year ago i had my stock clutch changed to an exedy sports tuff after market one, great clutch,

but since then especily when the car/box is cold, my 1st to 2nd shift is very tight and lightly crunches into 2nd, thou going from 3rd back to 2nd

its fine, every other gear change is always perfect, and as the box warms up all shifts are perfect,

im not exactly sure what gear box oil the mechanic put in the box, but im hopeing its something simple

like too thick oil used in the box or something along that line, has anyone got a sugestion on this one?

cheers, Rob.

[Kujotk]

do what most of us with gtst's do and try and let your car warm up for atleast 5 minutes before you take off, and take it easy for atleast another few minutes untill the engine has warmed up and subsequently the gear box oil chould start lubing everything after a few minutes of driving....

my prob is when the car is cold i can never put the car back into 1st without holding the clutch down for a good couple of seconds after i leave my street.... so now i roll it down the 100 meters of down hill in first, get to a t intersection, turn right out of my street, keep it in first for the 30 meters untill the main road, then i dont have the 2nd - 1st gear change prob..... after my car gets through to 3rd i guess its all lubed up and the tight gear chenges go away...

your situation would be differnt depending on time and location but really a turbo car should have time to warm up, take it easy at first, then thrash it, then give it time to cool down lol

[Munkyb0y]

no, most of us dont sit idleing in the driveway to warm our gtst's up. its not required, and not recommended, and doesnt warm the box up at all.

just taking it easy when you drive off till oil temps come up is the right way to go about warming it up.

but that doesnt answer the question.

[mad082]

all sitting in your driveway for 5 mins with the car running does is waste fuel. yes your engine will be warm but your gearbox will still be stone cold. if you drive like a grandpawhile the car is dead cold and then as it slowly comes up to temp you can slowly start to drive a bit more normal. and the engine actually takes much longer to warm up when it is sitting there idling than when being driven slowly. if your thermostat is working properly your car should be getting up to temp within 2 or 3km unless it is a very cold morning.

the squeak could be caused from a dry pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the pivot bolt is what the clutch fork pivots on. it is accessed via the rubber seal where the clutch fork goes into the box. some spray grease or silicone spray is good to use as it stays there a bit longer. anything that comes with a long nozzle is best as you can get it to the desired area.

as for the difficulty going into gear, that will be due to worn synchros and is more noticable when cold. try taking it a bit more easy or try double clutching.

the gearbox will be lubed up after a few rotations of the wheels but it will still be cold.

[dyefuker]

thanks for the responses, yea i never warm my car up, just start her up and drive it, but i never alow it to hit boost when cold, and im always very carefull with changeing gears, drive it very gently when cold, and as with the clutch squeek, iv listend to the gearbox area and its silent, the squeek is definataly not coming from there,

im thinking to try help the hard shifting ill try a different oil as yea i have no idea what my mechanic put in it, iv read that redline lightweight shockproof is really good, but as i fouind out today, really expensive, think i will try a penrite sin gearbox oil, its like 75w 85, and a bit cheaper at 45dollars for 2.5 litres, and iv only ever had great results from useinf penrite hpr10 oil, so might give it a go

[heller44]

Another option is VMX80.. loads cheaper than smurf's blood. Usually recommended with a dose of nulon g70 in with it.

[3LGODZILA]

use redline lightweight shockproof in there, it will fix the crunch, its not too expensive anyways, i think i payed $200 to get it changed, including the oil.

-$200 to give you a smoother gearbox doesnt sound expensive to me

but i was told by my mechanic, that when u use redline lightweight shockproof u gotta change the oil out more frequently (idk why) i think he said every 30,000 or so km's which is still a fkn long time.

[mad082]

Another option is VMX80.. loads cheaper than smurf's blood. Usually recommended with a dose of nulon g70 in with it.

i used VMX80 in my 33 and it didn't make a difference to any noises it had (if anything it made them worse). didn't put any nulon stuff with it though.

[dyefuker]

i think the vmx80 or 90 is what i used in my old 626's gearbox, its problem was the oposite with massive crunching downchangeing from 3rd to 2nd, but its box was really bad lol with metal shaveings constantly stuck to the drain plug, lol hope my r33's never gets that bad, cant see it happening, the vmx seemed to be a decent oil, but what is nulon g70? im geussing a cleaning agent of some sort?

and with the redline lightweight shockproof, i was at bursons looking at it last night and the bottle had a sticker on it stateing oil life time from 200'000 to 400'000 km's, and 30'000 isnt much for me, i drive my r33 a good 800kms every week, do alot of driving, need something good and that will be in there for a fair time

[dyefuker]

theres a store on ebay that sells the redline oils, ill be looking at about 130dollars for 3 litres including postage, so i dont think thats too bad

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=180285558161

thats the link

[heller44]

g70 is just a friction modifier. gearbox oil looks weird if you drop it after putting this stuff in though.

I was suffering bad crunches from 3rd to fourth.. seemed to do the job.

[dyefuker]

ah yea, ill give that stuff a crack and see if it helps, then ill eventually change to redline, just about everyone iv talked to said this oil is amazing

[Ultimategtr]

redline shockproof + the oil modifier got rid of all my crunches(only crunched reverse when cold. Now its super tight and feels brand new.

[dyefuker]

thats alright, mines been prity good, all gears are prefect, apart from especily when cold 1st to 2nd is hard and crunches, when the box is warm its not as bad, but still something i want fixed

[dyefuker]

just to shed some light on my few problems, today i changed my gearbox oil to nulon smoothshift 75w90 which is a semi synthetic oil plus about 210ml of the nulon g70,

it all feels much better, very smooth and quite, thou my 1st to 2nd shift still clunks a little into 2nd, im asumeing the syncro must be a bit damaged with that gear

and as to my clutch noise, i pulled the whole peddle assy out today, as well as the master cylinder, the creaking noise was actually coming from the shaft of the master cylinder, it wasnt moving smoothly as the clutch peddle was depressed, so the noise from that was resonating back thru the peddle and firewall creating a creaking noise in the cabin, i put some grease in and around the shaft then put the seal back over it and re asembled the car, now its quiet and very smooth like it was when i bought it, so im raped with that, hopefully it stays that way

hope this info helps someone else with the clutch noise problem

[Fluke33]

I'm a new owner of a 93 R33 Gts-t. Great car to drive with 255rwkw, but I have to use patience with the gearbox. It has a slight crunch when cold between 1st and 2nd but improves once warm and is fine for normal to moderate driving.

I took it easy when doing a track day in it though and want to find out more about the 5 speed box. Information in this post has been handy.

Does anyone know how much it would cost to get the synchros replaced, gearbox rebuilt if required?

[Impact]

yeh im after the same info, how much for synchros replaced or gearbox rebuild?

[bozodos]

Yeah mine was creaky, so i went spastic with rubber gloves and grease one day, fixed the prob until I got a new master cylinder fitted, think I will try silicon spray or wd40 this time to avoid having grease all over the joint. I have the same problems with cold box, just gotta persevere through it. Rev matching does help the 5th - 4th grind on the down shift though.

I am also going to try the Shockproof Lightweight when I have a spare $130, I have a 4th gear crunch which gets maddening at times! I'd prefer to get the box rebuilt or at least the synchros, but too much $$$ right now.

I only let it idle for 30 secs to get the oil up into the head - the previous owner told me that you had to let it idle until the water temp was up to 80!! (takes about 10 minutes lol) From what i've read about bores glazing etc, I prefer to just put up my street doing about 40 in 3rd gear, then through town at about the same, and just ease it onto the highway up to 100.