Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just quickly here is the results . He said i should be happy and with the mods im looking at should add another 15-20kws, Is this result at the wheels or what ? Its my first time :(

Im abit confused from all the reading i have done. Im reading on the g35 driver forums they are getting 235-245rwhp and im at 215rwhp. So should i be happy with this dyno result or not ?

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Be happy.. :(

I think the general consensus is US dynos read higher than Aussie ones as they like big numbers, and you can't compare one dyno run to another. 160 odd kw on the pulse dyno seems pretty decent to me.

As for cams...not a cheap mod and tbh, not that popular for our cars. Our cars are kinda too heavy to be able to afford to lose low down torque. Any cam you get will shift the power band higher. Your call.

I would rather look at good tuning option (emanage or reflash), full intake (filter, tube, spacer/plenum), full exhaust or exhaust from factory extractor back (so your fuji exhaust, y pipe if it doesn't include, and 2 x high flow metal cats)., ignition system (plugs and HKS dli system). This will get you near 200kw atw without losing low down torque. For even more extra oomph, go lightweight flywheel and lightweight crank pulley. After all that, you'll be in 13's *easy* with all stock internals (good driveability and reliabilty).

The best would be going lightweight, but kinda pointless on the Vs, Zs would be good though (look at the amuse Z).

Be happy.. :(

I think the general consensus is US dynos read higher than Aussie ones as they like big numbers, and you can't compare one dyno run to another. 160 odd kw on the pulse dyno seems pretty decent to me.

As for cams...not a cheap mod and tbh, not that popular for our cars. Our cars are kinda too heavy to be able to afford to lose low down torque. Any cam you get will shift the power band higher. Your call.

I would rather look at good tuning option (emanage or reflash), full intake (filter, tube, spacer/plenum), full exhaust or exhaust from factory extractor back (so your fuji exhaust, y pipe if it doesn't include, and 2 x high flow metal cats)., ignition system (plugs and HKS dli system). This will get you near 200kw atw without losing low down torque. For even more extra oomph, go lightweight flywheel and lightweight crank pulley. After all that, you'll be in 13's *easy* with all stock internals (good driveability and reliabilty).

The best would be going lightweight, but kinda pointless on the Vs, Zs would be good though (look at the amuse Z).

Im not looking for any time for the 1/4 , just want a tiny bit more fun. I did search and not much people have had the cams. The guy said i have 2 hi flow cats but no y-pipe. I wouldnt want to change that impul as it seems to be helping .Probably best for me just to change the intake like you said (filter , z-tube , and the motordyne spacer.) If your in sydney we can catch up and we can have a chat.

Now all i need to know is where is the cheapest for these mods. I saw ebay k&n filter for about $100 delievered. the z-tube was about $200 from the z-store and the spacer from the riverside infinity what ever they have it at i think its about $300 .

So roughly spending about $550-$600 hopefully achieve at least 175rwkw.

Edited by manda23

There's a V meet tomorrow night at fox, are you going ? I probably will go and hang for a little while. Othewise i don't mind meeting up and having a chinwag lol, you can drive my car too and compare if you want, but i suspect it'll be quite similar. I timed it last night at 5.73s to 60mph with a medium shift to 2nd.

Without knowing what exactly the impul rom is doing, it may be hard to realise full gains from the intake. The impul rom may be tuned for jap hi octane fuel, the air density over there is quite different to here as are temps.

Yeah i wouldn't really bother with cams, unless you plan to track it a bit and spend alot of time in the upper rpm's. In any case, the intake combo you mentioned should make it a little more fun like you said :(

There's a V meet tomorrow night at fox, are you going ? I probably will go and hang for a little while. Othewise i don't mind meeting up and having a chinwag lol, you can drive my car too and compare

if you want, but i suspect it'll be quite similar. I timed it last night at 5.73s to 60mph with a medium shift to 2nd.

Without knowing what exactly the impul rom is doing, it may be hard to realise full gains from the intake. The impul rom may be tuned for jap hi octane fuel, the air density over there is quite different to here as are temps.

Yeah i wouldn't really bother with cams, unless you plan to track it a bit and spend alot of time in the upper rpm's. In any case, the intake combo you mentioned should make it a little more fun like you said :P

5.7 is a great time hope I can get something like that.have you had a recent dyno run ? I'm not going to fox have work but free on Sunday . Il send you a pm .

Different dyno, different car, different conditions. Can't compare. Just like CRD's dyno reading 15-20kw atw difference compared to other dynos. UAS have a stingy low reading dyno etc etc.

Same DYNO, Same Car, Same Conditions and it's my car.

don't know what your talking about.

...

You said someone else with a spacer should get 170kw atw.

That's why i said can't compare because it's someone elses car and most likely on a different dyno.

I am not disputing your 7kw gain. Just disputing that anyone else with just a spacer should be at 170kw like you said earlier.

Fwiw, i found your post on the other thread very helpful. Your post was the main reason i bought my spacer :P, as i wanted to see some local results, not just on the G35's.

If you have a spacer then you should get 170kw at the wheels thats what i got.

read this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...20&start=20

Furthermore to this, can anyone comment on the MOTORDYNE MREV2 LOWER COLLECTOR? At $450USD, is it a worthwhile 'gamble'?

I've got one on my 2003 350Z. I don't know if its worth it unless you have the 221kW engine. The sites selling it advised that its designed for the 221kW engine, but may provide smaller gains on the 206kW donk. For the money, its a big gamble that could be spent elsewhere.

I can't tell you if it did anything, since I had my cutout bumped up, extractors and high flow cats installed, and an ECU retune to match the mods, when I did the MREV2.

People with the latter engine get a rebate if they send in their OEM collector, which leads me to conclude that the MREV2 Lower Collector is a modified 206kW collector.

The 221kW collectors have shorter runners, improving high end breathability at the cost of low end revvability. Tests have shown that the 221kW collectors only come into their own past 7000RPM, which means they're not a particularly good buy for anyone running a stock motor.

  • 5 months later...

with the Motordyne 5/16" in Basic, ISO Thermo, ISO Copper, anyone know the differences between the basic, iso thermo ad iso copper?

+ anyone know any differences besides the composites of blox compared to the other two? any power difference? life time durability and effectiveness changes compared to the other two? - also any reason why its 1/2 the price? -soz for the noob q's ;):P

Edited by ezy03

if you live in the Snowy area you should get the copper or the Thermo. This is to stop you Throttle body to freeze up on the Winter or Snow area and with the Copper or iso thermo it only warms up the throttle body rather than the whole plenum.

If you live in QLD i think Basic is more than enough. If in down the south, maybe you can invest in Copper or Thermo.

I have a Copper as i can't be bother to switch it manually with the iso Thermo.

the advantage of having copper is you don't have to switch on/off on the tap like thermo ISO. The Copper will do those automatically for you by just warming up the throttle body. While the Thermo ISO you have to switch on or off whenever you need. Also these Thermo and Copper function the same purpose to keep you plenum cooler, therefore you have cooler air intake.

The basic don't have those features,

They are charging me $100 and he looked at the impul he said never seen it before but I'm going to get the power run anyway just to see the output and how it's running with the Aussie fuel . I did mention to him about the spacer and he said something about clearance under the bonnet .

You won't any issues with bonnet clearance for any of the spacers in this thread.

I know that pv35gt8 made up his own and had no issues with clearance.... and his spacer was 17mm high

Umm guys concerning these head spacers. If someone who has bought one can scan it on a flatbed scanner and email me the PDF file, I can do a CAD drawing of it and we can get them watercut from aluminium in any thickness for around $30.

It'll be JUST as good as the real item if not a little better as the aluminium spacer will expand at the same rate as the plenum.

Just a though, could make 6mm, 10mm, 12mm or even 20 - 25mm spacers to experiment :P

Umm guys concerning these head spacers. If someone who has bought one can scan it on a flatbed scanner and email me the PDF file, I can do a CAD drawing of it and we can get them watercut from aluminium in any thickness for around $30.

It'll be JUST as good as the real item if not a little better as the aluminium spacer will expand at the same rate as the plenum.

Just a though, could make 6mm, 10mm, 12mm or even 20 - 25mm spacers to experiment :P

You could scan a plenum gasket to achieve the same result, presuming they use one?

You could scan a plenum gasket to achieve the same result, presuming they use one?

Yes you could, anyone have a spare that they want to scan for us? If i do a CAD drawing, we could ask the mods to stick it up as a download in the tech section, all you'd need to do is download it and email it to your local laser / watercutters and specify what thickness you'd like.

Yes you could, anyone have a spare that they want to scan for us? If i do a CAD drawing, we could ask the mods to stick it up as a download in the tech section, all you'd need to do is download it and email it to your local laser / watercutters and specify what thickness you'd like.

It is a good idea, but to install a spacer, you need a second gasket anyway.

So you might as well buy one (from Nissan or wherever) and take it in to be used as the template.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...