Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone used Billet turbos? http://www.billetturbochargers.com/

It does not seem that a lot of people have used them, I am assuming you could get a turbo built to specification with twin scroll housing, billet wheels look awesome too.

Mike

A member on NS used a twin scroll Billet turbo equivalent to a TO4Z on an SR. I'll see if can locate the dyno....and report back.

Yeah i agree on the 188 bieng a pretty poor choice, but i was not quiet thinking of going that big.. i just have the whole t88 kit minus the turbo at home.

Could the reason on the 3788 be its relativity new? or will it end up bieng a mis match affair.. does it really fall short bieng between 3582r-4088r what kind of power would a 3582 bring to a built 2.6 like mine?

will be running 98 pump fuel, was considering giving e85 a go but my engine builder is a bit iffy with it at the moment and recommends i wait a little till it gets established more. + i've bought all the fuel gear to run 98.

SR 2.2 litre Billet ZP turbo with twin scroll 1.0 ex a/r

300rwhp by a tad over 4500rpm, 400rwhp by 4,850rpm, 488rwhp 7500 rpm - looks like power was still climbing at 7500

post-50815-1210586602_thumb.jpg

That looks like a pretty sweet set up, equivalent to a TO4Z and you are at full noise at just over 4500rpm on a 2200cc engine. Looks pretty good, as I said I am not sure why more people do not go down this route?

Even a set of twins with billet wheels and fancy bearings (silicon nitride), able to flow the same as GT-RS's mounted on the standard cast manifolds would be cool as, I-rection.

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...

I've had the GT4088R, The Borg Warner S374, the S372R, and now the Billet 6765....soon to try the Billet 6262.

Being a Precision Distributor, I wanted to find out whether the hype surrounding the billet wheels was fact or fiction.

Going from a Borg Warner 72mm to a Precision 6765 netted me full boost 1700 RPM's sooner. (7000 vs 5300).

I lost about 40whp at peak, but picked up power throughout the powerband, which was worth the switch.

Here is my latest dyno graph, showing the T4 .68 A/R. Notice that torque/boost falls off, indicating the exhaust housing is too small. I have a .81 A/R backhousing on order, and should have some new dyno numbers to post this week.

They also make a .96 A/R, though I feel the .81 A/R is probably the housing to use on a street setup RB26.

25 PSI

25psi.jpg

33 PSI (Full Boost at 5300 RPM)

33psi.jpg

33 PSI with -4 Degrees Timing on the Intake Cam Gear (Full Boost at 5600 RPM)

33psiretardtiming.jpg

Good article that one , pretty much explains the differences advantages/disadvantages of both systems .

In the last section backpressure into TS/SS turbos is a crude term to use , exhaust gas pressure is a bit more informative to the wide audience these magazines get IMO .

Note that the "Minis" turbo is not huge and many of the OEM Mitsy and IHI turbos used on TS EJ's aren't either .

They are all about making lots of torque without lots of hot side restriction in front wheel drive based cars .

Evolutionm.net punters are just getting stuck into the Garrett bolt on TS GT3076R for Evo 10's , the results should be real good once they get around the hurdles of tinkering with late model cars .

As I keep saying twin scroll twin integral gate turbine housings is what makes a proper TS system a practical reality in a road car . The above mentioned GT3076R is probably the first aftermarket one and if it's a run away success we may see more as the petrol head world wakes up to their potential .

I'm pleased that the article made mention of exhaust gas temperature meaning emissions - NOx .

Fuel consumption can be improved through "cleaner" mixtures but its also a tuning/state of tune issue .

Its these things that stand a good chance of getting major manufacturers attention in this day and age .

Interesting times , cheers A .

All things being equal, for example:

Considering a standard stroke RB26 with mild cams and head work is the extra time and money involved in a properly set up twin scroll, single set up (TS manifold, twin gates, TS turbo housing) worth it in terms of performance over a well set up twin turbo system (assume ported manifold, high flowing dumps/exhaust)...?

Is the extra effort to make a proper TS set up, just to achieve what twins can already do in terms of performance?

Considering a standard stroke RB26 with mild cams and head work is the extra time and money involved in a properly set up twin scroll, single set up (TS manifold, twin gates, TS turbo housing) worth it in terms of performance over a well set up twin turbo system (assume ported manifold, high flowing dumps/exhaust)...?

Is the extra effort to make a proper TS set up, just to achieve what twins can already do in terms of performance?

Guess it depends on what you started with and what you want from it etc. If you go a twin scroll T4 based turbo upgrade you potentially don't have to change much in future, you have a more efficient setup (nicely designed manifolds/external wastegate setup), the engine bay is much more maintence friendly etc. And of course there is the whole obvious fact its just cooler :)

All things being equal, for example:

Considering a standard stroke RB26 with mild cams and head work is the extra time and money involved in a properly set up twin scroll, single set up (TS manifold, twin gates, TS turbo housing) worth it in terms of performance over a well set up twin turbo system (assume ported manifold, high flowing dumps/exhaust)...?

Is the extra effort to make a proper TS set up, just to achieve what twins can already do in terms of performance?

The benefits of twin scroll are not necessarily seen on the dyno as that is a WOT application - but partial throttle/transient response and the ability to spool and re-spool (on/off throttle applications) is where its at.

Some of the circuit racers in the US with SR's have switched to twin scroll from single scroll and are claiming to have dropped 2 sec's off there lap times - which is nothing short of incredible when they've probably already exhausted every other avenue to improve lap times.

A 2.5 litre Subaru that Geoff was involved with switched to a GT35 T4 twin scroll setup on an otherwise stock engine and set a lap record - even outgunning the new GTR.

Edited by juggernaut1
All things being equal, for example:

Considering a standard stroke RB26 with mild cams and head work is the extra time and money involved in a properly set up twin scroll, single set up (TS manifold, twin gates, TS turbo housing) worth it in terms of performance over a well set up twin turbo system (assume ported manifold, high flowing dumps/exhaust)...?

Is the extra effort to make a proper TS set up, just to achieve what twins can already do in terms of performance?

Twin scroll effectively tries to offer a twin turbo setup using one turbine... twin scroll just separates the pulses untill it hits the turbine where they will collide...

Twin turbos has no collission untill the exhaust, where you could infact run two exhausts and have no collission. Theoretically paralell twins will always be more responsive than twin scroll.

The benefits of twin scroll are not necessarily seen on the dyno as that is a WOT application - but partial throttle/transient response and the ability to spool and re-spool (on/off throttle applications) is where its at.

Yes, that is what I am trying to get at. I know you made mention of two examples but neither of them were originally a twin set up from factory like an RB26.

Lith, if you can quantify that increase in efficiency to 1/2 second per lap of what ever, which would be very important to some, then great. If not, then it looks like the extra expense/effort may not be worth it.

I guess this is more of a TS vs Twins not TS vs SS. Sorry, O.T.

Twin scroll effectively tries to offer a twin turbo setup using one turbine... twin scroll just separates the pulses untill it hits the turbine where they will collide...

Which is what you want? The turbine gets the full force of both.... without any "mess" from collisions before hand

Twin turbos has no collission untill the exhaust, where you could infact run two exhausts and have no collission. Theoretically paralell twins will always be more responsive than twin scroll.

I am not actually sure what to really expect, it would be interesting to know how they would compare but I personally can't see any obvious reason why twins would be more responsive. To be honest I'd almost expect a single to be a bit better in overall efficiency. The twins have a bit of a bonus in that they can have REALLY short runners, thats about it that I can think of.

I'm just putting out a guess.

I just think that with twin turbo the exhaust housing is unsplit and maintains an optimum flow path through the turbine.

wheras twin scroll just has a divider over the one turbine (divider leaves a compromised flow path) which can't be as efficient as having two seperate optimum flow paths over the turbine?

twin scroll would certanly work better than one large path but not sure it would work better than two smaller seperate paths

not sure if i'm making much sense:

post-41232-1243304140_thumb.jpg

i think the next thing that is to be adopted is them size varying turbines (dont know what they are called?) from diesel truck world. as the turbine speed increases the turbine opens up creating a bigger turbine so you get response and top end! seen them but only on trucks so far :D

Edited by GT-RZ
I'm just putting out a guess.

I just think that with twin turbo the exhaust housing is unsplit and maintains an optimum flow path through the turbine.

wheras twin scroll just has a divider over the one turbine (divider leaves a compromised flow path) which can't be as efficient as having two seperate optimum flow paths over the turbine?

twin scroll would certanly work better than one large path but not sure it would work better than two smaller seperate paths

Yeah definitely, we're all really hypothesising :D

I see what you are saying and not really too sure it would cause that much compromise - you'd pick the a/r to suit the fact its a split pulse housing... ie, with twins you'd maybe go .64a/r whereas on a single you'd be looking at .95-1.06.

Gases are inherantly good at being squeezed/forced places, so I am sure that the divide facing the turbine isn't going to worry them toooo much given that they are basically being forced at a bunch of spinning blades and are bound to expand, squish and swirl in all sorts of weird ways anyway.

I also like the fact that with the twin scroll setup there is a constant stream of pulses hitting the turbine, it will always have leverage on it whereas each of the twins will potentially have a far greater oscillation pre-turbine due to the gap between pulses. I really don't know for sure though, though its interesting to ponder. The twin scroll setups I have been exposed to honestly have blown me away in terms of response and spool, though I have never been in a car with twins that is using a similar engine spec and power level to another car running a twin scroll single to give a fair comparison.

I have however been in GTR running a single scroll .82a/r GT35R making similar power (getting towards 400kw @ wheels) and similar engine spec to ones running twin GT2530s and I reckon the GT35R setup was more responsive (at worst equivalent), so given the range of advantages a twin scroll 1.06 T4 setup on the same car would bring I dare say there would be no comparison between such a setup and a pair of GT2530s. It may not be apples and apples though as I suspect GT2530s might be capable of making more power.

Edited by Lithium
Yes, that is what I am trying to get at. I know you made mention of two examples but neither of them were originally a twin set up from factory like an RB26.

Lith, if you can quantify that increase in efficiency to 1/2 second per lap of what ever, which would be very important to some, then great. If not, then it looks like the extra expense/effort may not be worth it.

I guess this is more of a TS vs Twins not TS vs SS. Sorry, O.T.

Whilst I'd love to....I can't show you any real life comparisons of the RB26 with TS vs twins.

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...