Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy local and support the business in Australia :D

That being said I just got sent some Ikeya LCA and customs have picked them up. Cost me just of $300 duty for $1400 items. I spoke to a nice lady at Customs here in WA and she said that they have Nengun / Peter Spencer in their system and will be closely looking at items from him.

For larger shipments that can't come through the regular EMS postal service they will use FEDEX or something similar. These guys have their own customs broker service so they dob you in to customs straight away if they see the value is over $1000.

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

To go with his Falcodore? :huh:

As an aside, are there any Aussie manufacturers that make good quality and reasonably lightweight (for cast construction) wheels? :/

not really, simmons and ROH would be the only ones id trust, moreso simmons. even then ur often better off just bringing over from Japan.

Good luck getting 4 wheels in through customs without getting hit with duty and gst. It doesn't matter who you buy them off in Japan they are all the same price (roughly). When I spoke to customs yesterday they said they are getting tougher on EMS parcels coming through with no value or grossly under valued.

When you look at $300-ish on $1400-ish it doesn't make it all that much cheaper any more, does it?

Good luck getting 4 wheels in through customs without getting hit with duty and gst. It doesn't matter who you buy them off in Japan they are all the same price (roughly). When I spoke to customs yesterday they said they are getting tougher on EMS parcels coming through with no value or grossly under valued.

When you look at $300-ish on $1400-ish it doesn't make it all that much cheaper any more, does it?

ive brought in 2 sets, not hit with it either time. one set was 17x9 Volk GT-P's, which were like 200,000yen new (mine were 2nd hand). didnt have any issues even though they were undervalued.

both times were with streeter.

Sorry to go off topic here guys but can someone tell me what my wheels are? They look a bit like LMGT4's but I have never seen them in white before, They are genuine Rays tho so anyone know?

post-31195-1242807748_thumb.jpg

Not sure how to make the pic bigger?

Sorry to go off topic here guys but can someone tell me what my wheels are? They look a bit like LMGT4's but I have never seen them in white before, They are genuine Rays tho so anyone know?

post-31195-1242807748_thumb.jpg

Not sure how to make the pic bigger?

I'm pretty sure they're Rays Nismo LM GT1. Think they used to come on all 400R skylines.

Hi again all,

First off, I would just like to say thanks to everyone who has provided your info/help on this matter of wheels from Japan.

I have since decided to buy the wheels through Streeter instead of Nengun so I will keep you guys posted on the progress... but will take a while though as he has told me that it will take about 2 months for Rays to make the wheels, but it will be worth it! :D

Cheers,

xanavinismo

Hi again all,

First off, I would just like to say thanks to everyone who has provided your info/help on this matter of wheels from Japan.

I have since decided to buy the wheels through Streeter instead of Nengun so I will keep you guys posted on the progress... but will take a while though as he has told me that it will take about 2 months for Rays to make the wheels, but it will be worth it! :D

Cheers,

xanavinismo

you've made a very wise decision, u wont regret it.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm about to order some Gram Lights from nengun.com and I'm a bit confused about the disk type I should be choosing when selecting the rim size (A, B or C). I clicked on the link for Vehicle Specifications in the additional information tab on the page where you choose sizes/offset etc. but cannot find my car on that page for reference. If anyone can shed any light on this, then please do. My car is a 1992 R32 Skyline Type-M with the standard Type-M (4-pot) brakes and will be rolling/lipping my guards more before fitment. I was looking to buy 2x 18x9" in a +22 offset (disk B) and 2x 18x10" in a +10 offset (disk A). Just worried that if I buy them and try to fit them, then run into caliper clearance issues etc. I'd be pretty pissed. Thanks.

from wot ive read on the aus government site and i think i got it rite, import tax on a set of rims bought at $3200 was around $360, thats not that bad

Not quite right. You have to pay 10% duty on the wheels (less freight), add that to the cost of the wheels and then 10% GST on top.

So wheels eg. $2900 + duty = $3190 + freight (eg. $300) = $3490 + GST = $3839

Then if you get caught you have to either pay to clear them yourself $50 (roughly) or get a customs broker to do it for you. I would suggest doing it yourself as Customs will send you all the forms you need to fill out and are quite helpful if you have any problems.

Edited by jonn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
    • Got just the wing painted and fitted up to the existing boot. Big visual change and about time after having a GTR wing sitting in the shed since 2018 Headed up to Mallala with a quick obligatory stop in at Boliver OTR Oil control mods seems to have worked. I checked the catch can after session 1 and there was a dribble of water/e85 with barely any oil in it. After session 2 and 3 there was almost nothing and I stopped checking after that. so either great success or catastrophic failure/block of the external breather The GTR wing made a noticeable difference in the 160-185km/h sweepers. It was a very hot day for the cars at over 33C but the previously done cooling upgrade/ducting/water sprayers meant I never saw over 60C intake, 105C water and 100C oil and temps would drop back down very quickly once I shut it down. AD09's are a decent tyre but certainly and expectedly a step down when compared the the CR-S/AR-1 I have had on the car for years of track days. The handling characteristics of my car which I often describe using the Tony Hawks Pro Skater balance mechanic where either side of the center is understeer/oversteer was much more pronounced with no "green/safe" zone in the middle. However, imo it steers well/easily during oversteer largely thanks to the custom ACOSTAL front end. Enjoy a loose lap POV with my mate giggling away as a passenger.   Group photo for Peer Pressure Racing made it back home and gave it a wash Overall a great success compared to my previous two track days where i cooked the Starlets motor and blew up the new diff in the R32  
×
×
  • Create New...