Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically I have installed a set of "dog bone" upper camber arms and I can not get more then +1 camber on the front!! I could get -2 camber using the whiteline bushes/standard arms.....the wierd thing is that the hole to hole measurement is 10mm shorter on the dog bone arms (165mm) so in theory they should be giving better camber then -2...not +1.....?????

Bek

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269876-r32-gtr-upper-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

I'am stating that the shorter the arm used the more negative camber, the question is why is an arm 10mm shorter then the standard arm giving less camber instead of more??

Edited by boostd_r32_gurl

It may be because the dog bones don't have the same offset as the stockers between the inner and the outer

You can install them in various ways and it effects both camber and caster. If you have them offset towards the front it may explain your problem (you also lose caster). If you have them even you will gain caster and it should increase your negative camber. I did in my GTSt, also going from an adjustable bush type to a dogbone.

I'm kinda guessing but it's about the only thing it could be really, short of a dud tape measure or your existing bushes having enough compliance that the geometry changes when loaded.

Yeah I ofsetted them to the exact shape/measurement as the standard arm so the dog bone was basically identical...might try to install them another way and see if that works....running out of idea's as its going for an alignment Friday.

Bek

who is measuring the camber? sometimes the problem is in the alignment gear.

also, have you adjusted castor since you had the -2 with the bushes? with the arms being 10mm shorter than the old -2 set-up with the offet bushes you obviously should have more neg not less.

has the height of the car changed since you had the -2 with the bushes? that will affect the camber too of course.

All sussed, had a play around today and although the arms were ofsetted correctly, the right hand side arm had been installed in the left hand side and vice versa......simple mistake....very annoying. Thanks for everyones help especially "badhairdave" who seemed to be right on the money. Looks to be around -3/-4 at about 355mm eyebrow height but will soon find out tomorrow at the aligner.

Bek

I'm betting that they put them on the wrong way around!

It's hard to describe, but the arms are an "H" shape. When installed correctly, the H shape should not symetrical. If they are installed incorrectly, the change in body length due to the adhustment doesn't pull at right angles to the direction of camber.

Anyway - take your wheel off and post a picture and I'll tell you if they are installed properly :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...