Best Bang For My Buck Speakers?

[Joe Bellissimo]

The reason I asked if they were factories is because factory speakers are usually paper cones. Paper is very light so the cone can move in and out VERY easily. The result is great bass from a poor quality woofer. The downside is they have poor control at higher frequencies which results in the lack of clarity. I don't think that you will see a dramatic improvement in bass if any. The drumkicks should, however, be clearer and hit harder. The midrange should also be less muffled. With my old factories I was never playing anything lower than 50Hz, but it sounded pretty bassy since I was boosting it at 80hz. For RNB you could notice it, but for rock is was hard to pick out the lack of lower bass. It's hard to explain these things in words but I hope you understand what I'm saying.

You can fit any driver in any location. Depends on how hard your willing to to work to get it there. I'm not an installer so I can't really comment on fitting speakers. They are indeed $180 per pair of drivers. This does not include the crossover. Typically you would use the crossover and tweeter from the EXT-5.2 which is on the SPL Dynamics site. Last time I checked they were $150 if bought with the HF6.1. I probably said they were cheaper last time I posted but prices are changing everywhere at the moment.

I'm sorry about this but I have probably run you into a problem. The best way to mix the HF6.1 with another tweeter is to use a 4 channel amp and use each channel to run each speaker. This means you can use the setting on the amplifier to split the signal up. This will probably increase the overall cost. I suggested the HF6.1 since you were after some punch and they're a logical option but they will be a bit more complicated if you don't use SPL Dynamics crossovers and tweeters.

If I was on a budget I would give Option Audio amplifiers a look. I don't have any info on pricing but the last time I checked they were very competitive.

OK, what about this idea?

1. Buy a 2 x 150W RMS amp (please suggest a good, cheap one) to run the HF6.1's + tweeters, plus install new wiring

2. Throw out rear speakers, relocate stock fronts to rear (look like 5-6"), run them off 2 channels of the head unit (not bridged)

Sounds like a plan but you will need to use a crossover that can work with both the tweeters and midbass driver. I think figuring out the best amplifier solution is your next hurdle.

As for the MaxxBass103, you cannot get the same results with EQ. I could post another 3 paragraphs about why, but unless your really interested just take my word for it. Its also a $400 RRP unit so its definitely not for this upgrade, maybe in future.

Sound deadening would probably be Dynamat Extreme. You would cover the doorskin behind the trim. Doing the inside of the door will help a lot, but it will cost a lot more to do and will make it dificult to repair if you have a ding on the body.

I'm using a material called Accumat. Its more expensive than Dynamat but its MUCH lighter. You might want to consider it since your driving a performance car.

Well that's the end of another essay!

Thanks again for all the help

No dramas.

Cheers.

[benro2]

Hi again Joe, thanks very much for the reply - sorry for my late reply, completely forgot about this post!

Anyway, I think I ended up getting a bit ahead of myself in terms of money and complexity! I think what I'll do is just go for the original DLS that I was looking at, starting with just running them off the head unit, then if that doesn't do what I want, look at adding a couple of small midbass/subs in the rear.

However, a question about this: a friend has told me that I won't get "punch" if I mount things in the rear. I must do something like what you suggested and run powerful 6.5" drivers in the front. Is this true?

I went to Autobahn to look at the Option Audio amps, get prices, etc. and one of the guys gave me a suggestion: mount twin shallow 8" subs in the sides of the car, right next to where you sit in the back, I guess normally where the door would be if it were a sedan. He maintains that there is ample mounting depth there and is easy to build a box in there. That way it's still relatively close to me, I retain all boot space (this is very important to me) and with grills they should stay relatively protected. I would probably run a 4 channel for the front/rear and a separate moboblock for the subs. Do you think this is a viable option instead of your original suggestion? It's just that doing it this way allows me to start off cheaply and gradually build it up as I need to (and as I get more cash ).

Anyway, I'm hoping to take a trip to Melbourne mid July so I want to at least have the DLS in by then!

[Joe Bellissimo]

Its depends on how much modification you want to do. I have never heard a system like that so I can't comment on how well it will work.

You definitely want the punch in the front. It has to do with staging as well. If you have too much punch in the back it actually draws the bass in that direction ruining your staging.

BTW I made a mistake with the HF6.1 components. There actually is a crossover that you can get with them.

As for shallow woofers, check out Earthquake.

[Aidan]

Hey Ben, I'm very interested in your side mounted subs idea. Seems like an easier and cleaner setup than the boot. Over the next month I'll be re wiring my car and installing some front and rear speakers and an amp. While im at it Ill take a look at the amount of the area your talking about and see if I cant think up some ideas for the sidemounts. Are you thinking of doing this yourself or a professional job? Oh and are talking about having Twin as in 1 on either side, or twin and as 2 on either side? Either way, sounds like a crankin idea. Let me know how you go.

[Aidan]

Bit of an Update for you. Did some research and some measuring. From what I can tell, you'll only fit one sub on each side. And from all the spec sheets I've rear, we'll only be able to fit 6.5" subs.

I've found two that will fit.

JL Audio 6w3v3 - 6.5" - 4, and 8 ohm - 150w RMS Mounting depth is 108mm, Overall diameter is 174mm

Mounting hole diameter is 140mm

Kicker CVT65 - 6.5" - 2,4, and 8 ohm - 150w RMS - Mounting Depth is 71mm, Overall Diameter is 175mm

Mounting hole diameter is 140mm also

[Joe Bellissimo]

Aiden,

http://www.earthquakesound.com/sws.htm

SWS6.5

[ndev777]

Are rockford fosgate still the sh!t? A decade ago I spent $5000 on a mostly all alpine system... awesome for its time..