Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det - Common Replaceables For Major Service

Birds

By Birds,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

A few weeks ago I acquired a series one R33 GTS-T. She's done 92,000km and as I do with every car this age and lacking a service history, first order of business is a timing belt change. Have purchased idler, tensioner, belt and a waterpump. As I'm not too familiar with these engines just yet, I thought I'd ask if there was anything else at the front of the engine worth replacing while I'm doing this job?

On the side, and excluding traditionally serviceable items (filters etc.), are there any other electrical/mechanical parts that commonly wear out on these engines? I belong to a Calibra forum and one of the first things we tell new members to replace is the coolant temperature and oxygen sensors, because they deteriorate around this age and have adverse effects on performance/economy. I'm looking for things like that, and manufacturer faults. I don't believe in "don't fix what isn't broken" so I have no issue spending money on preventative measures. Have read through the general maintenance FAQ and service schedule too...thanks for posting that as I have no user or workshop manual :D

Thanks in advance.

P.S. What I do believe in is "if something is broken it's a sign you need to modify it" :P

petern Enthusiast

petern

Posted
Posted

sounds like your mechanically mind and have things sorted out.... but you can also check:

-replace O2 sensor (as you mentioned)

-clean the AFM wire with brake cleaner

-check coil packs for hair line crack and use silicon to fill out - to reduce miss fires

-clean the idle control unit

-not engine related, but check caster rod bushes for leaks

I can upload the r33 service manual if you like? 23mb pdf file

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions, I was thinking along those lines. If it's not too much trouble and it hasn't already been uploaded, that would be fantastic.

Your R33 looks exactly like mine :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • Butters
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Butters · Posted

      I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • Lithium
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Lithium · Posted

      BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...