Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no dramas :blush:

in hindsight the volt stabiliser wouldn't do anything more than just grounding wires as far as improving the shifting feel,

I just couldn't be @ssed sourcing kits overseas and I don't use ebay, don't have spare time like I used to to make the wires myself

so...

pivot was the go, one of my mate's has a set I could look at and the wire lengths were good, ended up finding a place for every wire, good quality but pricey for what it is imo, just lucky I got mate's rates

I ended up deciding to make up my own kit on the weekend.

I looked at lots of pics from the G35 Driver site to work out where all the earth cables were placed and to then make my own plan for the VQ25DET. I have ended up with I think a reasonable set up but I still have to earth the ECU.

Has it made a difference.....................it's not worse but is it noticeably better is hard to say.

My idle has been a bit high for the last 6 months and I would say it is at least 50rpm lower which is good. Acceleration is certainly crisp and the motor is smooth. Gear change may be a fraction better but not a big change.

At the total cost of $45 plus 2 hours I think it was worth while.

I will post up some pics tomorrow.

Cheers

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.   checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.   puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues
    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
×
×
  • Create New...