Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Cooler

PIOTREK

By PIOTREK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PIOTREK Proficient

PIOTREK

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I have done a search and nothing really has come up. I want to fit a slightly bigger cooler into my car, now I don’t want to go big aftermarket as I’m not a fan of the look. ( I am considering using a matt black spray can to help J)

I would like to get some insight if a gtr cooler will be a straight fit and how much bigger/ thicker it wil be?

I have also considered getting an r34 cooler too?

I only really want to be pushing 10-12psi through it, but not too keen on using aftermarket one. What is the easiest/ best option.

Plus I want to keep the pod, so I guess a stock cooler would make it leagal :D

Btw its an r33t.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted (edited)

Pretty sure the R33 and R34 coolers can handle it. I think people just upgrade due to the lower cooling efficency at that boost level. R34 cooler should be alright for 12psi through a stock turbo

Edited by Boostin96
Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33Matt Collaborator

R33Matt

Posted
Posted

I used a R34 SMIC on my R33 and noticed the difference straight away. Was a direct swap which was very easy to do, plus didn’t have to cut anything off the car. Seemed to rev out a lot easier and was more responsive. If you don’t want a FMIC and only aiming to do the usual mods with 10psi or 12psi, then the R34 SMIC is perfect.

Although Im running a FMIC on my R33 now and it feels even better. Kind of feels like more torque. I was very happy! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

Running an R34 SMIC will work - However, once the power bug hits you, it will hit hard - and then you will regret not getting a fmic in the first place.

I believe the GTR coolers are more pricey then a aftermarket fmic kit.

The issue with those smic's is heat soak, and LOTS and LOTS of it.

If you can get an R34 smic for dirt cheap(40-50) then sounds ok, otherwise save the money and get a fmic and just paint it black.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

Posted
Posted

r34 SMIC is a straight fit so its a piece of piss to do. Good for 200KW ATW but constant runs see a drop in power. Heatsoak. I havent installed a FMIC for the same reason. That and id rather not hack the shit out of my car to make it fit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
frx026 Proficient

frx026

Posted
Posted

r34 smic on a r33 will handle 200rwkw easy...

but if you want something a little better and still stealthy, get yourself a r34 ARC SMIC..

harder to find, but worth it,,, they flow nearly as a front mount does without the heatsoak or the r34 smic...

or at least that has been the experience with the ARC cooler on my 33...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PIOTREK Proficient

PIOTREK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

guys can u explain heatsoak concept i'm not gonna pretend that i understand it. I'm not gonna boost it past 10-12 aka 200 rwkw. So i think that an r34 cooler would be alright?

a) don't wanna cut up all the crap cause makes the car look mega cheap

b) the cooler look doesn't float my boat- Considering getting and aftermarket one and spraying it matt black.

But i reckon that a nissan cooler should be good, like some of the aftermarket crap floating around is pretty bad. The other think i was gonna ask, how does the stock ecu handle 10psi cause i took my blow off value (lol yer i don't like the cooler look haha) cause it was backfiring, skylines are just tuned really good stock i concluded plus the stututututu was too much attention lol

Edited by P1OTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
nsdq Enthusiast

nsdq

Posted
Posted

Heat soak occurs when the intercooler can't shed the heat that it removes from the compressed air of the turbo. On a hot day, the intercooler can, like a sponge, become "soaked" with heat and lose its effectiveness.

Heat soak is one of the major reasons that turbocharged cars tend to run slower when the weather is warm.

Common solutions to improve heat soak is the use of a higher-capacity intercooler, or one that's mounted more in-line with the air flow, as in front-mount intercoolers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

before you even consider doing a replacement SMIC please read in full detail;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...40&start=40

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=smic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...tml&hl=smic

i would go straight for the GTR intercooler its perfect and a factory item

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if it is only for street use and you don't drive that hard the r34 cooler will do the job. if you plan on going to track days at all then don't bother with the r34 cooler. it will suffer from heat soak extemely quickly which results in more chance of pinging and less power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
before you even consider doing a replacement SMIC please read in full detail;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...40&start=40

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=smic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...tml&hl=smic

i would go straight for the GTR intercooler its perfect and a factory item

As the OP was last heard of in May one presumes he has already made a choice but for the record I have read all three of the above links and I am still not convinced that the R34 smic is not a good choice for someone with a stock turbo. If you do repeated runs on a dyno with none of the fan air directed through the side vent then I am sure that the SMIC will get hot but I have used a trust smic on the track (around 200awkw) and when I pull in the inlet pipe (coming out of the intercooler) is cold. I am now running 16psi with a GCG highflow (around 220 -230awkw - will dyno again soon) and have a Nismo smic which is not much bigger than the R34 and it is now probably marginal. I am looking for an ARC smic and that will do me. I have slightly enlarged the vent and have made sure that the shroud directs all of the air that comes through the vent through the smic core. At this level and above I am sure that there will be benefits from a front mount but I don't want one. But with the standard turbo an R34 smic will definitely be adequate - you can pick them up here for $50 - $80 and there is no installation cost and no attention from the cops.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...