Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An old set of Pirelli slicks 305x680x18

Theres just over 2 seconds to be gained on new 305x645x18 slicks at Sandown if I can do my part.

The car was setup for Phillip Island hence the taller profile tyres.

^ thanks enjoyed that! would love some details on the car. are you commin to the Dec Sandown day?

Thanks

I would like to come if I can make it.

Car Details

R32 GTR setup for track use

Hollinger

RB26 430 AWKW

E85

MOTEC

1290KG no driver or fuel

List goes on and on LOL

Thanks for watching

  • 3 weeks later...

that's excellent....and I've finally seen someone better at cutting corners than an evo driver too :P

looks like you were at the top of top gear for a while about 9min, how fast does it go? looks farking unstable to be going that quick, especially over that jump, it would take some balls. And I love how quick you get to run through reasonably closed forest.

BTW gay horn ....you need to change it to a set of air horns that play a tune. No wonder the other cars were ignoring it

lol yeah I said he needs the 130db air horn from the truck shop, but that breaks the noise restriction limits

the Polaris that started in front of us cut them better then us, which worked out good for us, as they made a new track we went passed him

we normally topped out 3rd along that straight once into 4th and its a 5 speed straight gate geared for 220km at 7000rpm with 35s, it's a VQ35HR ( class restriction of 3500cc ) with a 8500 rev limit

that track was cut down because the rest of the track made that part look like we where running around on a cricket pitch, that was the first time a national round was held at that track and the first national round my brother had done in that car so he was taking it slow to get use to the car, it's to bad the GoPro went flat cause it got a fare bit faster

we left the line in 47th place ( first national event and no prolog due to weather and shit/dangerous original track ) with 15 second gap between cars and where 16th across it with 9th outright and 2nd in class

post-36620-0-98385200-1353834723_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...