Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I posted in another thread about this, but would like everyone's opinion on what could be wrong...

I'm not exactly a wizz at this whole mechanical side of life, so can anyone please explain to me what is wrong, if anything? I did an ECU fault test about 2 weeks ago on my R32 5sp RB20DET, and saw that the Knock Sensor code was coming up (from memory it's 3 long flashes, and 4 short flashes). When the car is cold, it is very hard to start (have to pump accelerator repeatedly) and the oil pressure sits under 4 on the dash nearly at all times... It never stalls when i push the clutch in, and never has yet. It also feels like the car isn't moving as quickly as it should. (EG, in every gear, second especially, it doesn't feel as free moving as it should...)

Does this mean i've done a main bearing, blown the bottom end or am i just paranoid?

Thanks. Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27016-rb20det-knocking-help-please/
Share on other sites

Give it a basic service.

I suggest :

- clean AFM (and air filter/or change element whatever is applicable)

- Put in new spark plugs (read cheapies - copper)

- Change oil and filter

You dont actually state that you can hear a knock from the engine.

Im changing the oil in my car this weekend, i would expect as was the case with my old SR20, that once it gets a gut of fresh/thin oil if a knock is present then it will be more evident once i have done an oil change. Incidentally this will be the 3rd oil change since i first noticed noise 9,500kms ago.

Im now thinking its perhaps some ancillary noise or perhaps top end noise on startup in my case.

matt,

i had htis code flash up when i did an ECU diagnostics and the reason it comes up is that there is some sort of fault with the ECU getting readings from the knock sensor

in my case one of the 2 knock sensor's was not plugged in!

it could aslo be that the sensor if faulty or just screwed.

it takes 2 minutes to check them: just stand over th battery looking towards the throttle body. If you hold a torch and look through the intake runners of cylinders 1 and 2 then you should see a little green sensor with a white plug plugged in. It is right under the intake plenum and attached to the block (may be hard to see). there is also another snesor between runners 5 and 6. have a look. in my case the plug's were hanging and not into the sensor... i had many of the symptoms you mention above of which most went away after i put the plug back in!

cheers,

Warren

  • 1 month later...

Mine is suffering from pretty much the same symtoms - cold starts and a bit of ping (rattle sort of noise when at higher revs) - when its hot, i am running too much boost on a stock cooler for this sort of weather me thinks...

i am thinking the fuel pump is on its way out, is there anyway to check it? Can somebody send me the diagnostic codes and how to check it?

[email protected]

Mine is suffering from pretty much the same symtoms - cold starts and a bit of ping (rattle sort of noise when at higher revs) - when its hot, i am running too much boost on a stock cooler for this sort of weather me thinks...

i am thinking the fuel pump is on its way out, is there anyway to check it? Can somebody send me the diagnostic codes and how to check it?

[email protected]

call me on 0411 878 961 and I'll talk ya through it if you like./.

My 32 has gradually been getting harder to start since i got it. I have to pump the accelerator and will only go on the second turn of the key.

Is there a simple explanation for this?

My oil and filter was changed not long ago. Plugs are around 7000km mark.

Regards,

Scott

Hey my R32 is also beginning to get harder to start, it only happens in the morning when the car is dead cold, it starts first turn of the key but sits at 300rpm or less and almost stalls unless I tap the accelerator, at which point it roars into life...well not really - it just starts idling properly! Sticky AAC valve perhaps?

I'd love to know the actual cause of this as well, it's only a recent thing on mine, and as with MM2Death - mine has regular oil changes and I just checked the plugs.

thanx,

Dave.

Hey Dr_Drift,

Thanx for that, if all goes to plan I should be bringing the car into BMT early next year to get some mods installed/car dynoed, so that'd be the best time to get you to check it.

BTW, you worked on my friends car - the purple DR30, I drove him down to pick it up. The car is running really well, I can't believe how quick it is! Once it's complied & on the road (soonish) it's definitely gonna scare some people!!! ;-)

cya!

RaseR - Small world :D I love FJ's they're quite an amazing motor.... The one i was chasing fell through so I'm sticking an SR20 in my Datto 1600!!!

Look forward to seeing that FJ for some mods soon :cheers:

Doc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of your suspension bushes/bolts etc, should also only ever be tightened when the car is sitting with full weight too.   IE, jack it back up, shove a heap of stuff down so you can lower the wheels onto so the car is "on the ground" but you have room to get under it.   It's why when properly done, you should be able to remove the shock and spring, but the arms won't go to 100% droop. If you don't do the above, you'll destroy your bushes.
    • We have some more genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates in stock 🙂, as well as the plain white 40mm hole cover: Tama 400 No 12-41: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-no-1241 Morioka 300 Te 43-58: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-te-4358 Plain White 40mm Hole Cover: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-40mm-hole-cover-white There's also a yellow plate for Kei cars with the corresponding yellow 40mm hole cover sold as a set: Tsukuba 581 Ii 64-66: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-single-number-plate-ii-6466 Also some Skyline 1/43 scale models: 1989 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Silver): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/rare-ebbro-oldies-2006-release-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gtr-silver 1989 HCR32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M (Red): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/kyosho-original-1-43-hcr32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-type-m-red
    • These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.
    • MZ11 Toyota Soarer in Iwata, Higashi Osaka
×
×
  • Create New...