Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Wrecking my brothers r33 GTS-T series 1, or if someone offers me 2,500 for the whole thing, they can come and take it. Photo's are attached.

All Parts available. Pick up only except for small parts. All Prices negotiatble. Please send PM's. Welcome to come and inspect, call me first.

Non Stockers,

JJR Coilpacks, travelled <500k's - $300

Turbosmart Boost Control bleed valve - (baught from forum, never got fitted), paid - $60

turbo back exaust 3" or 3.5" (one of them) - $300

Stock Parts

Engine (minus turbo and aircon which looks broken, 148xxx k's never boosted, stock) - Make an Offer

Gearbox - Not 100% Grinds sometimes when put in 5th, Make an offer

Climate control - $70

Window motors - $120 each

Turbo - $300 (if no-one wants whole engine)

Oxygen Sensor - $50

rear windscreen $300

door glass $100

rear 1/4 glass $50 each

drivers door shell $100

diff centre & shafts $300

Wing lip $150

Rear Wing - $100

Brake Calipers Discs and Pads, $600

Tailshaft $140

Axels $120

complete Back seat $200

Tail Lights $120 each

Located in Merrylands West

All Other parts available, please pm me, or Email me on [email protected], or call on 0431223431

P.S. I'll give you a discount for some parts if you strip yourself.

post-62650-1242439701_thumb.jpg

post-62650-1242439724_thumb.jpg

post-62650-1242439748_thumb.jpg

post-62650-1242439771_thumb.jpg

post-62650-1242439804_thumb.jpg

post-62650-1242439949_thumb.jpg

Edited by easyel
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270261-wrecking-93-gt-t-in-sydney/
Share on other sites

Last chance to buy as a whole! nothing has been striped of yet...$1800-$2000

First come first serverd

Urgently need the money

must come and visit within the next two - three days or else will start stripping late this week

Pick up only

Contact me ASAP

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...