Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally results are in.

She punched out 200.2 ATW on 12 psi (although spiking to 12.8) Not bad. But useless.

As soon as i took it out on the street off the dyno and gave it some... Rattling noise. Ping im sure. The 'tuner' was with me at the time, and looked concerned when i stated hey its f**king pinging hard.. he wound back the boost a little and f**ked with the timing.

Still did it at around 11.8psi. He stated you need a decent intercooler... Drove it tonight briefly on the high setting and it didnt ping (very cold out tonight), but it comes on boost in an unstable manner. the dyno readout is pretty wobbly and has a dip higher in the revs. Ill post this when i can. Looks like shit to me. With the standard solenoid grounded permanently it pulled 182kW ATF 9psi and a nice flat curve.. With the Eboost on 12psi its wobbly and looks like shit.

The boost controller is a new Turbosmart EBoost Street. Ive been reading the manuals and its states various options regarding gate pressure and sensitivity. Im sure these could be improved as it spikes considerably. I thought these f**king electronic things didnt spike once set properly.

Seems i now have little to no faith in his abilities or advise so im forced to have it retuned by someone who is trustworthy because i cannot comfortably drive it again without freaking out. Its now set back to setting one with runs around 9psi.

Can anyone please a reputable tuner in Sydney??? I dont care what it costs as long as they know skylines!!! Desperately need some decent advise i dunno who to listen to now

This sucks as this car was absolutely perfect prior and its disappointing to be honest. Its impressed everyone whose worked on it... Im now contemplating ripping it all out and replacing it with the factory setup as before running high mode constantly... Atleast i could rev it and not worry about destroying the motor.... Surely i could run 10-11 psi with a r34 SMIC without troubles??

Current mods

R34 SMIC

3 inch Nismo exhaust

JJR Split Dump/Front

K&N High Flow Panel

Turbosmart EBoost Street....

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/
Share on other sites

does it have an aftermarket ecu or are they just advancing the timing via the CAS?

Standard ecu. I wouldnt have a clue as to what you would do if you were adjusting timing (im mechanically impaired). I heard him mumble it, open the bonnet and adjust something at the front of the motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598610
Share on other sites

You pulled 200kw@wheels on the stock ECU and a side mount :blush:

The stock ECU should be dumping bulk fuel, how the hell is it pinging?

Adjusting the timing via the CAS is pretty bloody dodgy.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598623
Share on other sites

You pulled 200kw@wheels on the stock ECU and a side mount :blush:

The stock ECU should be dumping bulk fuel, how the hell is it pinging?

Adjusting the timing via the CAS is pretty bloody dodgy.

+1

You need a decent fmic or a bigger side mount, also what are your plug gaps, at that boost level should be 0.8 or 0.9mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598630
Share on other sites

no need to reduce the plug gaps, if your coils are good you can (and i do) run 1.1mm all day every day with any sort of power the stock turbo can give you.

To a point of course, i hit 18psi with my standard turbo and it was breaking down, i now have a hi flow and any more than .85bar and it starts to break down.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598640
Share on other sites

You pulled 200kw@wheels on the stock ECU and a side mount :blush:

The stock ECU should be dumping bulk fuel, how the hell is it pinging?

Adjusting the timing via the CAS is pretty bloody dodgy.

ive never heard pinging before. it was an obvious metallic rattling at revs under load. But the AFR's showed at high revs around 10.5 : 1. Its got me f**ked i just dont understand it enough to get my head around whats happening.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598653
Share on other sites

People are running in excess of 200AWKW with an R34 smic - that's not the problem. You need some way of tuning the motor and just playing with the cas doesn't count.

If you can't afford a Vipec get an SAFC and an SITC and get them tuned on a dyno.

Contact Anthony (Guilt Toy) for a tune and the lowdown on your options (may be others in your area but I wouldn't know).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598886
Share on other sites

Another point is that you should never hear pinging with a standard r33 ecu as when ever the knock sensors pick up knocking (usually it is very conservative) it will retard it.

the sound of knocking, its fairly loud? could be heard over the motor revving? this was

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598993
Share on other sites

is the engine light flashing when the "noise" occurs? if its detonation, and you can hear it whilst driving, inside the car, surely the engine light will be flashing.

its not something silly like being able to hear the EBC solenoid ?

if its detonating, and the engine light is not flashing, maybe check the ecu and see if it has been attacked. maybe its been fiddled with

is you rev limiter at 6800 or 6900 or what ever the stock limter is? what about speed limiter?

i know my car a few year back on the std ecu, anything over 10 psi, Rich & retard would chime in, and it would run like a fat kid through sand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4598995
Share on other sites

is the engine light flashing when the "noise" occurs? if its detonation, and you can hear it whilst driving, inside the car, surely the engine light will be flashing.

its not something silly like being able to hear the EBC solenoid ?

if its detonating, and the engine light is not flashing, maybe check the ecu and see if it has been attacked. maybe its been fiddled with

is you rev limiter at 6800 or 6900 or what ever the stock limter is? what about speed limiter?

i know my car a few year back on the std ecu, anything over 10 psi, Rich & retard would chime in, and it would run like a fat kid through sand.

I didnt notice the engine light. I generally notice and hear every noise and rattle. i dont think ive ever revved it to the limiter. it revved to nearly 7 on the dyno but i didnt hear a limiter. The rattle noise also appeared a little lower in the revs around 4-5 k...

It shows on dyno sheet AFR running down to mid 10's which is apparently rich as hell. my piss weak understanding tells me it shouldnt knock if thats the case? One thing is certain on high mode last night it spikes up to atleast 13 or more. On the low setting it doesnt spike at all. After reading the EBC manual i think i can adjust this with gate pressure etc so it doesnt come on boost as quick etc??

Ill pay anyone who is genuinly capable in there trade and has a good knowledge of skylines. Im tired of pretenders, as this EBC wasnt cheap including the dyno run/tune which was useless as tits on a bull.... what good is 200 ATW if you cant use it safely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270319-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4599005
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...