Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Joel, I have only spun up to forth, that was with about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, so just accelerating gently, dont want to check 5th as I am scared it will destroy the gear - Pretty scarry when in traffic at around 90-100kmh and the back end is trying to overtake the rest of the car:)

also with 255 goodyear revspecs on the rear and a decent wheel alignment and traction bushes so a reasonably grippy setup.

Hrmmm some of you guys need better quality tyres i think either that or i just need -alot- more power.

My setup is:

Koni front/rear shocks

Struts front/rear

Pineapples (traction setup)

Michelin Preceda 225/50/16 @ 38psi (nitrogen)

~180-200 rwkw (180 on CRD and 200 on UniGroup) so its relatively stock setup i guess.

I can accelerate in any gear on any dry tarmac road and not even get a hint of wheel spin. If I take off from a set of lights like a normal volvo driver (ie, 800rpm) I can use 100% throttle and it just sticks and goes. The -only- way I can get wheelspin is to "drop" the clutch from about 1700rpm and above, even by slipping the clutch their is no loss of traction.

Using your dodgy no name tyres you got from the compliance place simply doesn't cut it. The previous tyres I had on the car (20,000km old) were some Faulken tyre and they would give me non-stop axle tramp in 1st gear, they'd tramline all over the place and good luck slipping the clutch or even dropping the clutch. Tyres make an absolute -massive- difference.

In the wet if i take off like normal with 800rpm (idling level) and then i put my foot flat i'll get axle tramp depending on how wet the road is and how bad the surface is but it doesnt just fry the rear end like some of u are saying.

Benm, even when I was making around 185rwkw, my clutch fried and I upgraded - then I was getting wheelspin in second gear accellerating about half throttle with anything under 1/4 tank of petrol, not using the clutch but roll on. In first it spun the wheels anywhere in that gear if I flattened it.

This was on $420 dollar (each) 255 rubber, ie the revspecs, which are about the best tyre goodyear do rated just below an R series tyre. Maybe your clutch isnt quite gripping the way it should, as I believe that my circumstances are pretty normal for that sort of power? I also have Ohlins coilovers, on about the mid setting, definately not kidney jarring, and pineapples - although I have now included solid cradle bushes as well to help increase the traction.

It also depends on the condition of your diff.

This makes a huge difference. Even if it is slightly starting to get a little loose it will spin up one wheel first then the other will start to spin. Once you loose traction you loose traction.

When I was first making around 164rwkw first gear would really pin you back in the seat and feel like it was really lifting up the car.

At first it would start to spin with axle hop then slowly but surely it stopped axle hopping and has now started to spin up one wheel first then the second wheel causing the car not really to go sideways and not get any traction either.

So yer.. Make sure your diff is nice and tight.

You will know the feeling as when it first starts to go the car will feel like it is slower for some reason but really it is just slightly spinning the one wheel yet still picking up speed and also picking up rev's in turn not quite sounding like it is wheelspinning... Hard to describe.. Hope you know what I mean.

The best test I have found with both the Skyline and the VS Commodores IRS LSD's that have now both gone on me.

Is to in the wet weather, full lock it to the right and try to throw a donut. If it steps out straight away your diff is in good nic. If not and you can hear the inside wheel starting to spin well its on its way.

I can no longer throw a donut and go sideways.. However if I launch it and snap second gear it will snap sideways and sway from side to side through second.

I've got one of those Excedy Organic sports clutches (30% more clamping) and it slips in to third with a hard change. It is around 1 year old. :(

Occasionally on big launches where I slip the clutch to get off the line quickly, when changing in to second it would slip and the rev's would flick straight to red line. In turn I have to back off and re-accellerate again. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.   checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.   puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues
    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
×
×
  • Create New...