Hicas Warning

[Trozzle]

currently highway driving, not turning or anything, and the HICAS warning came on. What problems could it indicate? Knowing my luck its either the sensor has failed, or it wont come back on when i start driving again...

Thanks

[GTRKat]

Mine does it when power steering fluid is low

[TiTAN]

the R33 system is electronic, check the plugs near the diff.

[Trozzle]

i turned the car off for a good 10 mins, then started it again and got off down the highway...the light stayed off for about 5 mins, then came back on again...with the r33 system having electronic actuators, doesnt it set itself to a centralised position and stop doing anything when it detects a problem?

[W1ngnut]

I was only talking to John @ Trojan about this on Friday night.. One reason that was brought up is that if you have movement/play in your rear rackends. The Hicas throws warnings...

[Mayuri Krab]

Do you have an after market steering wheel installed? If you do, then theres a chance that the after market boss kit isn't HICAS compilable that or the HICAS sensor in the boss kit isn't connected properly.

This happens in my car.

[Trozzle]

I do have an aftermarket wheel on, HKS boss kit. it hasn't done it to me before, and after pulling in at Mittagong for about half an hour, it didn't do it again all the way back to Canberra. I'll pull all the plugs out and make sure they're clean of dirt etc, might pull the wheel off too and do the same.

Thanks for the input tho

[Scooby]

two ways to interpret a Hicas warning:

1. there is a system fault

2. it's time to replace it altogether with a lock so it handles better.

mine didn't have a fault but i went to 2 anyway. hope you find the issue.

Cheers

[Trozzle]

How much would a lock setup set me back? That's what I'd assumed, as soon as it's dead, replace with a lock.

[W1ngnut]

A lock bar is generally around $200 + install and then you would need to get a wheel alignment.

[JD_R33]

A lock bar is generally around $200 + install and then you would need to get a wheel alignment.

Plus you need to pull the Hicas bulb in the dash or it stays on permanently.

The other option is the Tomei Hicas lock kit which has shims and an electronic gizmo to fool the ECU into thinking Hicas is still functioning, currently around $185 + postage on Ebay.

[Helious]

Just a question about the r32 GTR hicas. Has anyone unpluged the hicas solonoid to stop it allowing any fluid to the back? I have mine unplugged and i dont have the hicas warning and havent had to cut any wires or remove the blub.

[Scooby]

I always thought the pressure was required to keep the rear rack centred, and hence the need for a hard lock if you disable it.

I removed all the crap from mine - lines etc and lost about 20 kg of highly expensive junk as well as creating extra ps fluid capacity. Was going to fit a shorter R33 pump but it's well down the list of things to do.

[Helious]

I was going to have all my hicas stuff removed when i had my engine out...but the guy "FORGOT" so instead he put in a lock off whatever it is. with a lockbar then unplugged the solinoid to stop warning lights...but forgot the speed sensor which made more lights come on....><

[Trozzle]

I was going to have all my hicas stuff removed when i had my engine out...but the guy "FORGOT" so instead he put in a lock off whatever it is. with a lockbar then unplugged the solinoid to stop warning lights...but forgot the speed sensor which made more lights come on....><

Please tell me this guy had nothing to do with your engine removal/fitting...

[Helious]

Please tell me this guy had nothing to do with your engine removal/fitting...

>< It's being checked over by someone who's work i trust currently so he will pick up on anything else that has been forgotten...but in the most part the only problem with the engine ive had was the accessory belt needed tightening and a few old wired snapped. But the car runs smooth as a untuned GTR does...

[spec-V]

Troy, seeing as I sold you the car, I will clarify a few things to save you and a few other people some time.

For the record you have a HKB bosskit installed in the car fitted to a GKtech wheel, the bosskit inwhich is in your car is HICAS compatible. The problem you have found occuring is not infact related to steering wheel.

If you stick your head under the back end of the car you will notice that there is the KYB HICAS linkage system, carefully, and I repeat carefully remove all the plugs and give them a spray with contact cleaner or electrical contact cleaner, it is quite dirty under there I know, and 15+ years of driving im sure has clocked up alot of dirt,

The member who posted that the Hicas system throws a warning under movement of the rack ends is correct to an extent however it is highly unlikely that the rear end of the car would move enough to trip sensors, I should know I went over the car with a fine tooth comb before it went on the truck.

The light has come on with me driving only 3 times in the 2 and abit years I owned it, and I put it down to age, I can assure you nothing in the rear end is astray or in need or repair, however a safety check would be recommended for peiece of mind.

A more probable cause to the problem mate (having worked around many Hicas equipped cars over the years) Would be that a earth wire has come loose (which I suspect is the case) or Jax Quitfit f**ked it somehow when they did the balance on the tires.

I suggest jacking the rear end of the car up mate, and if you drop the 2 10mm bolts either side of the linkage it will swing down, there you will be faced with 2 21-23mm bolts holding the diff into the rear cradle, what I suggest checking is that the HICAS earth is still connected to the left bolt, if it isn't re-connect it, I dare say this is your problem!

Goodluck mate and keep me posted on the car, I do miss it alot!

[spec-V]

Also it is worth noting that you should check the fluid and top up if necessary, even over-full if you wish, It sovled my problem first time it happened in the car!

[W1ngnut]

The member who posted that the Hicas system throws a warning under movement of the rack ends is correct to an extent however it is highly unlikely that the rear end of the car would move enough to trip sensors, I should know I went over the car with a fine tooth comb before it went on the truck.

I was only talking to John @ Trojan about this on Friday night.. One reason that was brought up is that if you have movement/play in your rear rackends. The Hicas throws warnings

It was only a noted suggestion as it was a coincidence we were just talking about it as my rear rackend wasn't in great shape (since replaced two days ago).

Edited May 22, 2009 by sfrizza

[Helious]

Also it is worth noting that you should check the fluid and top up if necessary, even over-full if you wish, It sovled my problem first time it happened in the car!

From what i remember, the rear hicas resovouir needs to be topped up when the car is running as it drops a bit. If you top it up when it isnt on it could still drop below the minimum and trigger the warning light. Check every plug and as age was mentioned, check for snapped wires. It doesnt take much for years of little bits of road hitting a wire to one day just snap.

Hope its a quick fix for you once you find the problem

Edited May 22, 2009 by Helious