Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My GTS4 4wd is playing up. Can anyone help me please.

So far I have done the following to try and diagnose whats wrong.

I have jacked the rear wheels off the ground and slowly dropped the clutch to see if the front wheels try to move. They didnt move at all, had the rears spinning quite fast and no action front front what-so-ever.

The 4WD light on the dash is not coming on when I start the car, and never comes on at all for that matter.

I just checked the attessa ecu and I get 21 flashes, and then repeats.

looking at this link: http://www.sussexjapclub.com/nissan-attess...des-vt2810.html

21: Throttle sensor or circuit

Anyone know how to interpret this? or how I can fix it?

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270547-attessa-4wd-troubleshooting/
Share on other sites

Remove the tps sensor, give it a clean & replace it. If that fails try swapping out the sensor with a known good one.

Well i didnt remove it (yet) but I disconnected the plug and used to multimeter to test it. At 0 throttle it sits at zero ohms then when I open the throttle it starts to increase resistance and then goes open circuit almost straight away.. I open the throttle almost the whole way and it read 18ohms for about half a second then goes open circuit again.

Is there a globe in the dashboard for the fault light?

do you mean is there a bulb in the dash for 4wd? I dont know what you mean by globe sorry.

Well i didnt remove it (yet) but I disconnected the plug and used to multimeter to test it. At 0 throttle it sits at zero ohms then when I open the throttle it starts to increase resistance and then goes open circuit almost straight away.. I open the throttle almost the whole way and it read 18ohms for about half a second then goes open circuit again.

do you mean is there a bulb in the dash for 4wd? I dont know what you mean by globe sorry.

Bulb = globe.

So without me going to check does the TPS check out as the manual says it should?

Sorry man, I don't want to state the obvious but did you check the fuse in the engine bay?

Yeah I'm messing around with that fuse alot lately, its not blown and I'm sure it works because I can hear something like the "attessa primer"?? when ever the fuse is plugged in, so I'm pritty sure the fuse is doing its job. I know in the past (when my 4wd used to work) I used a fuse I bought from a gas station but that didnt work for some reason, had to source this fuse from a nissan wrecker.

I dont have a manual and I lost my copy I had on this computer.

But this link is quite helpful: http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...hlight=tps+test

I think I was looking at the idle contacts, hence the weird readings

I found the other connector disconnected, which id imagine is the variable resistor one but cant see what it connects to.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5897/57520046.jpg

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

not yet mitch but I've been trying.

Can anyone tell me the path the rear loom takes to give tps signals to the attessa. I've checked the passengers side footwell but cant see the wires I'm after.

Also, does anyone know if GTS4's use an ECCS control unit the same as the r32 gtr's do? If they do, where is it?

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...