Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided against the coil packs that sit in the valley between the 2 cam shafts, so I made my own custome setup that works better and is much cheaper by using 3 holden commodore VT coil packs bought brand new for 45 dollars each and 6 igntion lead to suite required length came to a grand total of no more than 160 dollars after purchasing the mounting brackets.

110,000 thousand volts of pure electricity with a wasted spark mode for better fuel economy and the coil packs last longer and are cheaper and more readily available to purchase.

So think about that option as well I think it's a great idea works very well and I have been using it for 9 months now and not a drama and have increased power and fuel economy.

Splitfires ......... :devil: Get them. They are very good. This system replaces the original equipment coil pack and ignition wires with a direct ignition coil on plug system. The increased ignition performance found with the SplitFire Super Direct Ignition System is a must for all racing and performance enthusiasts.

I decided against the coil packs that sit in the valley between the 2 cam shafts, so I made my own custome setup that works better and is much cheaper by using 3 holden commodore VT coil packs bought brand new for 45 dollars each and 6 igntion lead to suite required length came to a grand total of no more than 160 dollars after purchasing the mounting brackets.

110,000 thousand volts of pure electricity with a wasted spark mode for better fuel economy and the coil packs last longer and are cheaper and more readily available to purchase.

So think about that option as well I think it's a great idea works very well and I have been using it for 9 months now and not a drama and have increased power and fuel economy.

i get these things in all the time and 9 times out of ten they are no better than stock.... in fact i just had a 4dr r32 in that would not crack over 15psi without closing the plugs down to .5mm.... it was using the AU setup. Best bet is new COPs or aftermarket COPS.

thats why wen my coils failed i bought a set of R34 GTR vspec coilpacks with under 40,000kms, and they work an absolute treat

ps. r33 series 2 and r34 gtr coilpacks are the same >_<

they might be hard to come by, but i found some almost straight away

cheers

Is it possible that these bigger coils need larger dwell time to charge up? I hooked up an oscilloscope the stock dwell time was only 1.8/2ms or something like that.

i get these things in all the time and 9 times out of ten they are no better than stock.... in fact i just had a 4dr r32 in that would not crack over 15psi without closing the plugs down to .5mm.... it was using the AU setup. Best bet is new COPs or aftermarket COPS.
  • 2 weeks later...
thanks everyone for your comments, obviously these are ok then, not a complete waste of time ...

regards

not at all. I have a had a set on my S1 R33 GTST for around 5 months now and they havent skipped a beat. They fixed my misfire issue instantly and Ive been giving em hell and they are strong as. Quite a few people are using these now and they are very happy. I got mine direct from paul at www.performance-wise.com and they also come with a 12 month warranty which as good as it gets with these products. I think there is a group buy for them here now on SAU aswell and theres also few good comments and info about these in the group buy thread aswell. Get em. You wont regret it and you'll have some change to get other mods :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...