Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have abit(to say the least) of a split on one of my front brake lines, so i think its a good time to get some braided ones, not that i really need them, but may as well since they need changing anyway.

the question is, should i fork out ~$300 to get some fancy nismo ones?

or

go Earls with my current brake lines and get some made up to match?

now if i choose to get them made up at earl's, i need to know if theres any special things i should know. whether theres one way valves, or special fittings that have to go on.

atm earl's is looking like the better option, as they will be an arm and a leg cheaper, also i'll get the sense of satisfaction of doing it myself :P

any help appreciate, thanks.

btw its for a R32 Gtst with the sumito 4 pot brakes.

Edited by phat_man
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270706-brake-lines-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

If you dont need nismos one then go standard either Earls(not sure who they are) or theres a place in fairfield (sydney)called brake brothers. Just give them your lines and they will make up a new set from it within a few hours... easy. I got them to make a few adjustments as i was doing a brake conversion at the same time.

I would not make your own out of earls fittings and hose. since you can't pressure test, or whip test, or QC them properly yourself then you are leaving yourself open to problems. they are subject to some pretty hardcore pressure, and pulsing.

the nismo ones are well prices for what they are. they will fit perfectly, they look good. they have a nice protective coating over the braid and they will keep you safe.

Definitely don't make your own brake lines, far too risky. Even places like pirtek won't make brake lines, even though the assembly is the same as any braided line with swaged ends such is the risk if not done correctly.

Any specialist brake workshop can make adr legal lines to your specifcations and can assemble (or refer you to someone who does) with brackets or sleeves to fit in factory mounts. Never cable tie brake lines on to brackets.(my pet hate)

I bought a set of lines from brake west a couple of weeks ago for my car. Excellent quality and $250 for a set of 4 is a good price, I have the same setup as you with the 4 pots on the front, tell him you need the lines with the 4 round fittings for the fronts, he has two different lines depending on ur setup and I got the wrong ones the first time, not such an issue for me as I live in Melb but a bit of a pain if u don't.

The round fitting is what's called a "banjo" fitting. You will also need banjo bolts and copper washers (2 per banjo fitting) to complete the job.

This only applies if you've removed the double flare seat from the bottom of the brake line threaded hole.

Edited by Daleo
The round fitting is what's called a "banjo" fitting. You will also need banjo bolts and copper washers (2 per banjo fitting) to complete the job.

This only applies if you've removed the double flare seat from the bottom of the brake line threaded hole.

FAIL!

The banjo's required are square, no bolt required with the round fittings, they have a 2 legged spring washer thing that holds them in place.

Is the round fitting needed for the R32 GTR (non-brembo) ?

Yes I believe so, the 4 pot sumitomo calipers.

Just buy the Nismo ones. $300 compared to $250 that Omurru paid.

Nismo ones will fit perfect for only $50 more.

Or you could buy the perfectley fitting, locally made, ADR approved ones for $50 less and support an australian owned business.

some shops still currently make and sell lines to comply with adr7/00 which is superseded by 42/02 clause 15... those lines that comply with adr7/00 were made with rubber inserts to pass the whip test but were later found to fall apart due to the massive temps they have to endure, so if you care for your life then please get steel inserts (not ADR7/00)

lastly, no brake hoses are "ADR approved" as the system only "approves" whole vehicles, you just need to comply to the rules, and the rule is.......

15. BRAKE TUBING AND BRAKE HOSE

Flexible hydraulic brake hoses, air or vacuum brake tubing and air and

vacuum hose, flexible and hydraulic power hose between the 'Brake

Power Unit 31/00' or 'Brake Power Unit 35/00' and the master cylinder

or its equivalent must conform to SAA, SAE, BS, JIS, DIN, ISO or ECE

Standards specified for flexible brake hoses, air brake tubing or hose

or

vacuum brake tubing or hose or hydraulic power tubing or hose and be

fitted to the vehicle as to prevent chafing, kinking or other mechanical

damage under normal motion of the parts to which they are attached.

Thanks for the replies.

looks like the Nismo lines maybe the best option after all.

in regards to ADR...etc... is this something that is regularly checked at track days or something that cops check? (im in NSW)

and are the Nismo items ADR approved?

thanks,

FAIL!

The banjo's required are square, no bolt required with the round fittings, they have a 2 legged spring washer thing that holds them in place.

Fail yourself mate, a banjo fitting is a round (or square) fitting on the end of a line with a HOLE THROUGH THE MIDDLE. The bolt I was referring to is what goes through the hole, with a copper compression washer on either side of the fitting and then threads into brake line hole.

There are only two ways to attach a brake line to this caliper, With a double flare, which bolts the line in with a "spinning nut thingy" (included technical jargon for your benefit) around the end of the line itself or with a banjo bolt, "turny bolt thingy" through a banjo fitting.

What do you think mounts the brake line into the caliper? Because i can assure you it isn't "2 legged spring washer things." ARE you referring to a brake line mounting clip?

Perhaps you'd do better to actually read what I actually wrote before insulting people you dont know.

Anyone can be a smart guy over the internet, I thought we were on here to help each other, not make smartarse comments.

I was just passing on some info on a job I've ACTUALLY done, not something i "believe" to be true.

In future you can keep your highly technical "spring washer thing" comments to yourself.

Kind regards Dale.

Edited by Daleo
Fail yourself mate, a banjo fitting is a round (or square) fitting on the end of a line with a HOLE THROUGH THE MIDDLE. The bolt I was referring to is what goes through the hole, with a copper compression washer on either side of the fitting and then threads into brake line hole.

Maybe you didn't understand what I was trying to say, I'll explain it a little more...The banjo's that come on the brakewest lines for the brembo calipers are square. No bolt is required with the round fittings for the sumitomo calipers, cos there not banjo's!, they have a 2 legged spring washer thing that holds them in place, and the ends of the lines screw onto the solid lines out of the guard and into the caliper

There are only two ways to attach a brake line to this caliper, With a double flare, which bolts the line in with a "spinning nut thingy" (included technical jargon for your benefit) around the end of the line itself or with a banjo bolt, "turny bolt thingy" through a banjo fitting.

I'm gonna go with FAIL again on that, there are two different calipers on these cars depending on ur model, the brembo's which use a banjo(I presume, I haven't seen, I've just seen the wrong lines I got the first time), and the sumitomo's which I do believe we are talking about here that do use a "spinning nut thingy" (because I like technical jargon) which surprisingly enough doesn't actually go into the caliper itself.....

What do you think mounts the brake line into the caliper? Because i can assure you it isn't "2 legged spring washer things." ARE you referring to a brake line mounting clip?

With regards to the calipers we are talking about here the flexible line doesn't actually go into the caliper it goes into a solid line that goes round to the caliper....the brake line mounting clips (i'm sorry I upset you because I didn't know the name so I just described them) mount the lines to the strut and also the ends to brackets where the "spinning nut thingy" joins up to the solid lines. I'm just gonna chuck in another FAIL here cos you did again :)

Perhaps you'd do better to actually read what I actually wrote before insulting people you dont know.

Anyone can be a smart guy over the internet, I thought we were on here to help each other, not make smartarse comments.

I was just passing on some info on a job I've ACTUALLY done, not something i "believe" to be true.

I did and what you wrote in regards to what I said was wrong. In general yes it was correct, but with regards to the job here that actually needs to be done it was wrong. Now if YOU had ACTUALLY done this specific job you'd know you were wrong. My "belief's" come from me ACTUALLY doing this specific job on my own R32 gtst not 2 weeks ago. If you'd like I can go and take some photos to show you your wrong but considering you've done this before it should jog your memory and you'll just accept it.

In future you can keep your highly technical "spring washer thing" comments to yourself.

I like my highly technical comments and I challenge you to find one that is incorrect so your just going to have to deal with them :)

Anyway back on track,

phat_man - I changed my lines for a roadworthy and when I told them I was going to put braided ones on they said they had to have the little sleeve on them saying adr number and manafacturer approval number, weather or not they would be checked by police I doubt it, there pretty hard to even see unless ur under the car.

  • Nope 1
Maybe you didn't understand what I was trying to say, I'll explain it a little more...The banjo's that come on the brakewest lines for the brembo calipers are square. No bolt is required with the round fittings for the sumitomo calipers, cos there not banjo's!, they have a 2 legged spring washer thing that holds them in place, and the ends of the lines screw onto the solid lines out of the guard and into the caliper

I'm gonna go with FAIL again on that, there are two different calipers on these cars depending on ur model, the brembo's which use a banjo(I presume, I haven't seen, I've just seen the wrong lines I got the first time), and the sumitomo's which I do believe we are talking about here that do use a "spinning nut thingy" (because I like technical jargon) which surprisingly enough doesn't actually go into the caliper itself.....

With regards to the calipers we are talking about here the flexible line doesn't actually go into the caliper it goes into a solid line that goes round to the caliper....the brake line mounting clips (i'm sorry I upset you because I didn't know the name so I just described them) mount the lines to the strut and also the ends to brackets where the "spinning nut thingy" joins up to the solid lines. I'm just gonna chuck in another FAIL here cos you did again :cool:

I did and what you wrote in regards to what I said was wrong. In general yes it was correct, but with regards to the job here that actually needs to be done it was wrong. Now if YOU had ACTUALLY done this specific job you'd know you were wrong. My "belief's" come from me ACTUALLY doing this specific job on my own R32 gtst not 2 weeks ago. If you'd like I can go and take some photos to show you your wrong but considering you've done this before it should jog your memory and you'll just accept it.

I like my highly technical comments and I challenge you to find one that is incorrect so your just going to have to deal with them :rofl:

OK dude, I realise now you're still using the rigid line that bolts into the back of the caliper (my bad on that one), I had removed this and used a braided line all the way to the caliper (hence my reference to removing the double flare seat in the caliper)

So i was just relaying my experience, not really any need for your schoolyard "fail" insult, seriously, you probably wouldn't do it if we were speaking face to face.

You didn't upset me (need to try a bit harder than that), I just don't understand the juvenile need some people have to score petty points when they're really just splitting hairs. A little bit of respect goes a long way. Probably shouldn't have chipped you back, but you started it. I also like your highly technical comments, gave me a good laugh. :)

Just because you did it one way, doesn't make it the only way.

Take it easy, Dale

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...