Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lawl you cant see the snail char....

Umm really you'd be better off doing the work yourself, mechanics will do the work if you really want them to. Costs money though when generally its not too difficult to do it yourself.

kk i might as well give it a go.just dont wanna screw anything up aye thats my main worry.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4607019
Share on other sites

Dont pay a mechanic to do it, its not too hard.

Start off with painting/polishing your rocker cover and spark plug cover. Next, take all your intake piping off and get it sanded/polished. Looks mint when thats done. Relocate your fuse box to under the dash, hide your overflow bottle and washer bottle, and carbon canister. If your more serious, hide all your wiring, get a GReddy forward facing manifold, and a highmount turbo. Then go nuts with the chroming/painting until everything is perfect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4607047
Share on other sites

+1 easy mod is take off your fuse box lid and sand it back so all the writing is gone then sand with p800 and give it a coat of plastic primer and head down to supa cheap autos get ur self a can of 2pac. spray paint and go nuts.. then mabe a coat of clear that will give u a gloss shine..

if u FU*K it up go to reckers and get a nother one for 10buks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4607086
Share on other sites

well if used correctly it is lol, ie:bleed the brakes/clutch :P but yeahh, im a 3rd year nissan apprentice and i can tell you right now i guarentee that if your gunna work on a car you'l always find something to cut yourself on no matter what your doing :sick:

Yeh very true, i sliced my thumb open when i was replacing my gear knob :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4608556
Share on other sites

not too good aye..what parts can i pull out that arent necesary?

There is a big reservoir attached to the firewall on the drivers side. You can remove that, it isn't necessary for going fast or doing skids. :P

No but seriously if you want to do it properly it is going to cost big dollars. (ie. chroming everything you see, rewiring the engine bay so all the wires disappear, painting various things). Just enjoy your car and put some money towards some basic mods like a good stereo, exhaust, some nice rims and whatever else you would like to do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4608870
Share on other sites

Man, you could practically eat out of that engine bay it's so clean.

When rooting around in your engine bay, you will bleed no matter what, you don't even have to be doing anything major, and you will still bleed. And when you do, you usually won't notice it until you start bleeding on things you shouldn't ............ Fkn RB30's in VL's **shakes fist**

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4615780
Share on other sites

We generally use the search function to be honest.

Come to a meet or something, ask around for Greg.

I can talk you through some things.

It gets pretty expensive once you get past the suggestions made by Michael on the first page.

ok i shall do that

where a meets?

what are they?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4618816
Share on other sites

i was just wondering what about the "engine bay wash" at those kwik kleen DIY carwash in?

anyone have tried that before, i was just thinking to clean it just a little not up to the std of showroom look?

or should i just stick with a steam cleaner?

how do u guys clean ur engine bay anyway?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4618946
Share on other sites

check the events section. At this point I'll be going to the cruise on saturday.

I clean my engine bay with degreaser and a hose.

Wrap up my reservoirs/alternator/fuse box/fill the coilpack channelo thing with rags then plastic on top/ i think im missing something else.

Spray degreaser, wait 15mins, spray water, scrub anythign that didnt come off easy right away, leave bonnet open in sun to help dry.

Couple hours later, unwrap reservoirs etc, give those bits a wipe down.

done.

This has been done once ever. Waste's a good few hours.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270820-new-car/page/2/#findComment-4619591
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...