Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can someone explain to me whats the difference between th RB26DETT on the gtr 33 and the 34???? do the produce the same power and performance?

basically i want to convert my r34 GTT to a RWD r34 gtr and i read in more than one place that it is possible, and i found a pretty cheap r33 gtr engine and want to know if its different than r34's engines..... i'm not an expert in skylines so if someone thinks that i'm thinking about to do something not possible please advice me

R33 and R34 GTR engines are the same.

Both RB26DETT, but there would have been a few refinements for the R34. (Tuning wise)

Both R33 and R34 GTR's came with the standard RB26 and the N1 Editions came with N1 engines.

R33 and R34 GTR engines are the same.

Both RB26DETT, but there would have been a few refinements for the R34. (Tuning wise)

Both R33 and R34 GTR's came with the standard RB26 and the N1 Editions came with N1 engines.

...and thus, the refinements lead to more torque from lower down in the rev range.

thanks guys for the replies....so what you are saying is that if i put the rb26 from the r33 gtr on my GTT and tune it properly it should perform exactly just as an rb26 from r34?

did i get that right?

nearly = not quite = just about = virtually = so close = Hmmmmm = or as Maxwell Smart says, "missed by that much"!

AND ONLY IN A STRAIGHT LINE WITH THAT GT-T RUNNING GEAR (since you asked about performance too).

At the end of the day H B, if you're getting a great deal with an R33 RB26DETT motor, I wouldn't be put off from going ahead with the conversion.

And if you really want to boost your torque (since your engine is out already), budget for a couple of TE25/30s or HKS RS turbos too.

All the best with it! But don't forget your stoppers!

Agreed. It was the package as a whole that was more upgraded than the engine and gearbox. While there are tuning differences, and with that, power differences between the r32, r33, and r34 model engines, they are essentially the same engine.

That's why I should sell my 33 gtst and buy a 32 gtr now instead of pissing away any more money, and starting with the better package. But I'm an idiot.

Realistically, age and km's are more important than the series of gtr the engine came from. Unless it's a Nur. Or has been rebuilt. Or particularly strong or weak due to factory tolerances. Or if you buy the engine on a Tuesday. you get the drift......

can someone explain to me whats the difference between th RB26DETT on the gtr 33 and the 34???? do the produce the same power and performance?

basically i want to convert my r34 GTT to a RWD r34 gtr and i read in more than one place that it is possible, and i found a pretty cheap r33 gtr engine and want to know if its different than r34's engines..... i'm not an expert in skylines so if someone thinks that i'm thinking about to do something not possible please advice me

there are differences between motors........

the most obvious difference is the Rocker Cover on the Engine... R34 being Red paint & R33 just plain black base colour.

they peform slightly different power in tuning.

The R33 RB26 is closer to the R34's than it was with the early R32 Rb26's, as the Crankshaft had a slight difference in size as well as it causing problems with the oil pump.

The head on the R34 has been improved after the R33....

The R34 Rb26dett has a Aluminium Inlet Plenum Chamber, where the R33 has a plastic one.

The crank angle sensor on the R34 is black, where the R33 is metalic.

there probably are more little differences here and there

there are differences between motors........

the most obvious difference is the Rocker Cover on the Engine... R34 being Red paint & R33 just plain black base colour.

they peform slightly different power in tuning.

The R33 RB26 is closer to the R34's than it was with the early R32 Rb26's, as the Crankshaft had a slight difference in size as well as it causing problems with the oil pump.

The head on the R34 has been improved after the R33....

The R34 Rb26dett has a Aluminium Inlet Plenum Chamber, where the R33 has a plastic one.

The crank angle sensor on the R34 is black, where the R33 is metalic.

there probably are more little differences here and there

huh? The inlet plenums are exactly the same! The real differences between the R32/33 and R34 RB26s is as you mentioned the R34 runs a different CAS which means you need R34 specific cams Main difference is the R34 runs far better ceramic ball bearing turbos, giving the engine better torque characteristics and ultimately a few more kws when tuned up with an ecu and exhaust.

huh? The inlet plenums are exactly the same! The real differences between the R32/33 and R34 RB26s is as you mentioned the R34 runs a different CAS which means you need R34 specific cams Main difference is the R34 runs far better ceramic ball bearing turbos, giving the engine better torque characteristics and ultimately a few more kws when tuned up with an ecu and exhaust.

well ive never had a r33..

the colour is different

in that case the colour is different

with the R34 being aluminium and the R33 black

274011mgsf3.jpg

RB26DETT_R33.jpg

2x R33 engine bays

11855mgap2.jpg

R34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...