Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've been keeping track of my fuel consumption on my iPhone...

Because of work I'm also making lots of short trips of about 10 min / 2 to 9Km every hour or so... ...I think I got around 600Km on a GOR cruise once and around the same going up to Swan Hill... ...But that was before I started recording my fuel...

post-31686-1243000906_thumb.png

post-31686-1243000916_thumb.png

i used to get approx 450km (30km of that after fuel light on) max. fairly stock auto. haven't had a chance to check economy recently as i've had it tuned, and still in the "honeymoon" phase :D

I don't think I've ever seen the fuel light... ...How low does the needle get before it comes on???...

I don't think I've ever seen the fuel light... ...How low does the needle get before it comes on???...

For my car, it came on when the needle is like about 1/2cm or so under the E line.

& I only know this because when I picked up my car from the panel shop, they pretty much drained all the fuel out & I was driving on empty :( .

Thanx JamesK,

i got an autoban just down the road from me, ill pop in there on the weekend and see wat they can do for me about an o2 sensor,

hopfully that might get some more ks, if not, it cant hurt getting a new one :)

Forget autobarn, save some $$$ and time and order from HERE $77 and quick delivery.

I've never been brave enough to let it get that low... :(

Dont you mean stupid enough, efi fuel pumps dont like running dry.

Replaced the oxygen sensor tonight. Got her up on the hoist and laughed at why I even bothered putting it up there when the sensor was clearly visible from the engine bay. Then I ate my words when a seemingly 2 minute job turned into 2 hours. The positioning of the sensor is so damn awkward. Near impossible to get a grip on the sensor nut with a torque-worthy tool. My open ended spanner kept slipping...shifter couldn't get a grip...socket wouldn't fit over sensor. Didn't want to thread the sensor nut so I resorted to snipping the sensor wires in order to get an angled ring spanner over the nut (forcing me to get the new sensor installed or being unable to drive home). Still had no room to get any decent leverage though. Had to remove the heat shields from turbo and exhaust - the screws of which were rusted through and threaded themselves when I tried to remove them. Drilled some of them out and vowed not to put the shields back on afterwards. I was quite literally bracing myself against the car chassis while trying to unhinge that rusted piece of crap sensor. After every swear word in 4 or 5 languages she finally cracked. Putting in the new one took the other half of the 2 minutes I had originally intended to spend on this.

/end rant.

Here's hoping my fuel economy improves because my anger management sure isn't.

Oops should of posted up earlier I have an O2 Sensor socket if anyone nearby wants to borrow it...it does make your job a crap load easier as birds may have found out that damn thing is in tight!

My sky is on average on about 11.4L which i was happy with UNTILL my car broke down and started driving my brothers spare care, 1.8L Corolla. Geezzz, fill 40 L, done 550kms and i still got one line to empty. I cant belive the difference. You save about 7 dollars per 100kms. woow

In saying that, the car has no balls nor handling nor looks nor anything else. lol just a lil engine.

ive never seen a fuel light come on ever..

didnt know there was one

There is guys, trust me I was in the same boat as you guys but it only comes on when your needle is ON E like basically the light is REFUEL NOW!...haha but in the manual it says there is 7 or so lts left in the tank and even when your start to get at that level it will still start to fade on and off until I think about 5lt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...