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Dr30 Diff Woes

bc210
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bc210 Contributor

bc210

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Hi guys have a problem with my diff there is a clunking coming from the left rear the sound is only there under acceleration and sends vibration throughout the whole car.

I took the car to my mechanic who welded the diff because the spider gears were shot and replaced the cv's didn't really help at all though he doesn't seem to know, he was telling me it was the front of the diff but i have my doubts because the noise is definatly on the left.

The noise only started after i lowered the car at the rear could it be the shafts angle has changed so the shaft that is on the right is of a shorter length.

Think i should change the wheel bearings too can somone steer me in the right direction to get some replacements for these.

any suggestions would highly appeciated

Brendan

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ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

Posted
Posted

mine does 2. sounds like bearings dude, only when loaded up hey ? id go wit your gut feelin, bak left hub bearing ass. no good. mines been doin it for ages, havent got around to changin yet so nfi how to do it

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

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If it's the same as the DR/HR/MR30 the hub has to be dismantled and it's a whole lot easier on a bench than in the car, so the trailing arm would have to be removed. An Harmonic Balancer pulley works well getting the hub apart. The bearing cones can be drifted out and tapped/drifted back in, but just be sure not to set them in off centre (crooked) as you might bend the cone or break it.

Once you have the bearings out, take them to any bearing sales outlet and they will match the numbers. Ask nicely and you'll get 50+% discount off retail and you will save a bomb against genuine Nissan for same thing.

A steel drift works getting them out, but a brass one is best putting them in, less chance of damaging the cone with a brass drift. Failing this, get a shop to press them in & out. Then pack the bearings with high temp wheel bearing grease of about 220 viscosity or better and install in correct cones and re assemble hub.

My personal favourite is Mobiltemp 220 100% synthetic grease, but it's hard to get and only available in 2.2kg cans.

Cheers, D

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V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

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COULD be the front bearing, but another way to test if it is the rearaxle bearing is once at a cruising speed, hold your speed and move the weight of the car left and right.( swerve side to side, but not stupidly) the sound should come and go

cheers

Jason

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ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

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so they use a tapered bearing, sounds like not to much trouble.. (i hope) im wondering wat u do wit the hub nut does it need to be torqued or is it done the same as if they wher the bearings on the front ?

cheers

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

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so they use a tapered bearing,

No I farked that up, sorry!

There is 2 bearings, an inner and an outer, normal roller bearings, but they are sealed. I removed the inner seals & washed the grease out, to re pack with synthetic, but the bearings still have to be drifted on to the axle. That's if in fact it's the hub bearings stuffed.

It's a few years since I did my rears on the PNV.

Do Drew's test first to confirm

Cheers, D

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