Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im prity sure i know the answer to this one but just curious on everyone elses opinions

i have 18inch rims, wich are 9.5inch wide on the rear with maxxis 265/35/18 tyres on them

or i can go with stockies on the rear which are the standard 225/50/16's which again are the maxxis brand and have alot of tred

what would be the best to drag on at heathcote?

last time i ran at calder park i used a set of 205 semi slicks and did a 13.58 quarter mile pass with perfect launch and all gear shifts right on

my r33 s2's mods are quite basic, with a r33 gtr front mount, after market boost controler on 8psi atm, k/n high flow pannel filter,

stock exhaust, and after market excedy clutch

i was raped with my best time and love 2 make it again, so open to any sugestions how to maby even get a better time?

at cadler my mods were exactly the same as what they are now, nothing has changed

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271089-what-tires-to-drag-race-on/
Share on other sites

i lost my one from calder lol, i was shatterd, but when i draged then it was on a set of 205 semi slicks on 16inch wheels, they were great, full boost launch at 4.5k with no wheel spin, im thinkin my 265/35/18's will be good enough, they grip like all buggery on the road

Definitely go back to your stock wheels with the 225/50/16's as they will provide more grip on a prep'd track. The thicker sidewall will dampen the launch and allow the heavy car to slingshot from the line where as your 18's are too firm with no sidewall flex and will either create axle tramp or just spin and go nowhere.

A recent example of this theory would have been last weeks Top Gear Australia episode where the supercharged Walkinshaw VE Commodore was quicker on the factory wheels than it was with the Walkinshaw wheels.

If you want to spend some money then get stock R32 GTR (16x8 as opposed to 16x6 for stock gtst rims) rims with a pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials.

As for help with a quicker time, the first thing would be a new full exhaust system to replace the stock, that will give you better midrange power. The second is just heaps and heaps of practice and to keep all your timeslips and collate the data in a spreadsheet.

Definitely go back to your stock wheels with the 225/50/16's as they will provide more grip on a prep'd track. The thicker sidewall will dampen the launch and allow the heavy car to slingshot from the line where as your 18's are too firm with no sidewall flex and will either create axle tramp or just spin and go nowhere.

A recent example of this theory would have been last weeks Top Gear Australia episode where the supercharged Walkinshaw VE Commodore was quicker on the factory wheels than it was with the Walkinshaw wheels.

If you want to spend some money then get stock R32 GTR (16x8 as opposed to 16x6 for stock gtst rims) rims with a pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials.

As for help with a quicker time, the first thing would be a new full exhaust system to replace the stock, that will give you better midrange power. The second is just heaps and heaps of practice and to keep all your timeslips and collate the data in a spreadsheet.

sweet as mate thanks for the info very very usefull, the 18' rims live on my car, so ill be driving there on them, but ill definataly have a set of stockies in the back seat, shall try both types and see the difference ;) but i understand your point, with the 205 semi slicks they were amazing on track, i launched basicly flat nacker of the line with no wheel spin, and probably a little clutch slip, iv had a fair bit of experiance, use to drag my old car a bit on track, and this will be the 2nd time with my r33

so what size rims and tyers .and brand ,are ppl using if they want to run a full slick ??

[/q

and yea man not many run full slicks, typicaly a semi slick tire, look like street tires with less groves and the compound of the tire is softer and much more gripy/sticky

Once you are in 2nd gear semi-slick circuit tyres will still be better than road tyres, provided that you heat them up with a gentle burnout.

Also, no point taking your 16's in the back seat, where are you going to leave them whilst waiting around in line all night? Swap all 4 back to the 16's before you leave home the night before and drive to/from the track in them.

its a massive meet for the australian ford forums that iv joined thru a mate that obviousaly has a ford lol, so there all good people, and you get your own pitting/coverd area to put cars parts/wheels/ luggage/subs and amps, n yea anythin not wanted in the car, its quite a good setup there at heathcote,

yea probably a good point thou to go back to all 4 stockies, they are lighter than my rims to!! how didnt i think of that! lol ooops

M/T SDR's 255x50x16's

1.41 60's...no comparison.

so what rims are you using to run your slicks ?and what sort of car are you running them on .does any one know whats the smallest rim you can run onthe back of a skyline r33 gtst .i heard some where if you run na rear brakes you can fit a 15 inch on the back ??has any one heard of this..surely there must be some ppl out there running full slicks ?

so what rims are you using to run your slicks ?and what sort of car are you running them on .does any one know whats the smallest rim you can run onthe back of a skyline r33 gtst .i heard some where if you run na rear brakes you can fit a 15 inch on the back ??has any one heard of this..surely there must be some ppl out there running full slicks ?

hey dont know if you read my reply in your topic but read this!

hey man, not sure you even have to do that, i ran 15inch slicks on the back or my r33 gtst and they fit on fine with no problems with the rear brakes, and iv got the 4pistion fronts and 2 piston rears which im prity sure are the biggest stock r33 gtst brakes?

they were 15inch wheels of a au falcon which run the same stud pattern and offset, and they had 205 semi slick tires on them, griped like buggery and made me able to make a 13.5 second quarter mile with my stockish r33

hope this info helps ya

hey dont know if you read my reply in your topic but read this!

hey man, not sure you even have to do that, i ran 15inch slicks on the back or my r33 gtst and they fit on fine with no problems with the rear brakes, and iv got the 4pistion fronts and 2 piston rears which im prity sure are the biggest stock r33 gtst brakes?

they were 15inch wheels of a au falcon which run the same stud pattern and offset, and they had 205 semi slick tires on them, griped like buggery and made me able to make a 13.5 second quarter mile with my stockish r33

hope this info helps ya

yeah sorry dude ,i missed last night ,when i was looking around ..

cheers for that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...