Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, admitted i am a noob when it comes to this. The stock Oil bushes have gone and am up to replace. Have decided to go with Eccentric Caster superpro adjustable bush kit. The shop has quoted ~$500 for the kit, labor and alignment. Does this sound about right?

Also I was thinking that since the alignment is like $80 is there anything else worth doing with the susp while they are there? Are there any other bushes worth replacing?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271112-eccentric-caster-bushes/
Share on other sites

Castor bushes I think are around $220.. They seem to be quoting about 2.5hrs labour, which is maybe a bit much, but if they're thorough it's probably reasonable.

No doubt they'll pick up on other things as they see them.. to be honest all bushes may need attending to if they haven't already. That's going to be kind of expensive though. Front end you could consider upper arm bushes, lower arm bushes, steering rack bushes, swaybar d-bushes, and link bushes. Maybe tie-rod ends as well if they're flogged out, they're not too expensive.

Thanks mate, yea the alignment is in the price also. Man would love to do all the bushes while i'm at it, but yea will cost abit. :-(. wish I still had my Rud money :-(

They seem pretty thorough so will book it in to get done. Hopefully will fix up my front end feeling like its not connected to the rest of the car ;-)

Just wanted to make sure that amount was bout right, just seemd abit to me.

Seems expensive to me. I did that on my last car -this time got some good 2nd hand adjustable castor arms - unlimited adjustment for cheaper - easy to fit yourself (still need wheel alignment but).

$500 for a bush change, lol

the eccentric bushes are pretty average, maybe give u half a degree extra of caster adjustment, and they arent on-car adjustable. for $500, ill fly over and install quality adjustable arms for you that will give u on car adjustment of around 4 degrees of caster.

Bushes are bush- all are of simular quality, sounds like someone is taking u for a ride bad!!! See wat just the part cost and compare.

Got mine changed last week….. Paid 80bucks to get them pressed in and like whiteline bushes cost 120 buck. Add the alignment (only the Front) and its 240 job. That is the cheapest way I reckon. No point getting adjustable arms if u gonna keep the rest of the suspension stock.

I went a step up and got adjustable bushed on the front (on car) and that was a little bit more. Makes a massive difference and would 100% recommend doing this. I would say fixing the caster rod bushes made the car handle 60% and got rid of my brake shudder!!

Worth the investment just don’t over invest.

Hope this helps

dude just the standard whiteline bushes(got about+- 1 degree adjustment) 120 +fitted 80=200 plus and allignment, as above they aren't really gonna adjust them anyways it is very hard. I paid a lot for an allignment but i "feel the difference"

Don't over pay man! at the end of the day its 2 tiny pieces of rubber don't = 500 bucks unless its track suspension

As to adjustment I could never figure out how they did it either with the eccentric bushes.

So I cut a 5mm keyway cut into the thickest part of the center steel pin(2.5mm deep) and one in the bolt(2.5mm deep) and pressed the keyway into the bolt. Then cut a 2.5mm slot into the chassis where the bolt slides in. You cut an arrow on the head of the bolt so you know where the futhest point of adjustment is. To adjust all you do is loosen the nut and turn the bolt to the desired positon and tighten it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...